All-Sports Rear Lift Kit Install "My Way"
This may be a potential sticky.
Lots of people have been asking me what to do with the brake cables of a Precedent vehicle with a 6" lift. There is an issue due to brake cable length of these vehicles. This is my solution... I'm going to post 10 photographs. Afterwards, I'll describe them. Please ask if there are any questions. |
re: All-Sports Rear Lift Kit Install "My Way"
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The first picture is of the square U-bolt plate that is to be installed underneath the axle. I install a bolt in the center of this piece to keep the plate seated firmly in the spring saddle. I use a 5/16" x 1" bolt. The head of this bolt will sit in the saddle.
The second picture is a photograph of the factory brake cable bracket/spring retaining plate. You'll need to cut off the shock tab on both of these plates (Driver and Passenger) as shown. The third picture shows the brake cable bracket/spring retaining plate after cutting. The fourth and fifth pictures show the center hole of this same plate. It must be enlarged to 1/2" to allow for the nut on the leaf spring center pin to sit inside it. |
re: All-Sports Rear Lift Kit Install "My Way"
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In order to gain the clearance that I want and to releive the slack of the brake cables I've determined that the best method is to flip the entire brake mounting plates upside down and swap them to the other side of the vehicle. This will allow for the brake "Slide" mechanism to be located towards the top of the backing plate, rather than the bottom. This keeps the brake cables stuffed up high and will keep them from hanging down so low.
The first and second pictures here show the brake assembly. These pictures are taken of a vehicle that has already had the brakes "flipped" If you'll notice, the brake adjuster is at the top of the cluster instead of the bottom. The access hole in the first picture reveals the C-Clip that must be released in order to remove the axle shaft. You'll need a pair of 90 degree C-Clip pliers to complete this task. Once it's released, slide the axle out and un-bolt the brake plates. Swap the driver and passenger brake plates and flip them upside down. Re-install axles. The third picture shows the lift kit install finished on the passenger side of the vehicle. Notice the bottom square plate as shown in the previous post. The bolt in the center of this plate is firmly seated in the original spring saddle and can not roll out of it. This lift kit does not "Require" this bolt, but I think it's extra security so I highly recommend it. The fourth picture is another angle of the same thing. Notice the factory spring retainer plate is not mounted underneath the leaf spring. (We used a factory spring therefore the enlarging of the center hole was unnecessary because the center pin is longer, but with many aftermarket springs you'll need to do it). Another common way of tackling this task is to install a grade 8 bolt with the head on top of the spring but with double nuts on the bottom. This will allow for the OEM spring plate and the lift block to fully seat. Make Extra SURE that the center pin is seated into BOTH the plate and the lift block, otherwise it may shift and fall apart. Take a look at the brake cable. It lines up perfectly to the slide mechanism. The All-Sports spring retaining plate is mounted above the leaf spring and the factory shock bolts right up to it. The fifth picture shows the completed lift kit again but gives you a nice view of the brake cable sitting in it's "Factory" location, yet it's on a lifted car. It provides a much better brake feel than any other method. |
re: All-Sports Rear Lift Kit Install "My Way"
. . . nice write up and pics . . . thanks Tahoe . . I agree . . Sticky material . . . :thumbup:
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I guess this will work on a DS also?
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Thanks for the tip! That's a much cleaner look without the brake cables so low.:thumbup:
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Tahoedawg - is this the same on electric rear ends as well as gas? not sure which one you were working on in the pics.
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nice write up!
what is your prefered brand of 90degree snap ring pliers? I've tried several without much luck. |
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Great write up.
I'm finally going to be installing my All Aports 6" lift this weekend. I think this will be worth the extra work to move those brake lines to the top. The Brake lines hang way low from the factory and they are they are the first this to scrape the ground when clearance is a issue. Am I ok with the factory shocks or does anyone recommend an upgrade? Thanks! |
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I've read that people are using Chevette shocks as "long travel" shocks. I believe you use the factory upper and lower mounts in this configuration. I think the napa # is 94013 for stud and eye and 94066 for stud on each end. Hope this helps!
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Thanks a bunch for posting this! I was going to attempt this on my own with out a write up about it, So thanks for the pictures and the write up.
I might need to read it again but you do have to move the entire brake assembly from one side to the other? Dose the self adjuster still work like this? Does the rotation being opposite effect anything else? Thanks again. |
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I don't have an allsports lift (not even sure what brand) but this mod works well. I did have to make a new top plate, but no more stretched brake cables and much better brake feel. My cables were so tight before the pedal would pulse as the springs and axle rotated. Now its nice and smooth.
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Thanks for the info,,and just when I thought I was about done. Will have to make be a couple bottom plates and go from there.
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Have been working on rear brakes and swapped sides with backing plates and mounts. I have been under spring and over springs and can not get the brake cable alignment that is straight. I am using a 4 inch Jakes lift and do have HD rear springs. If I go on top it's too high and when I go under spring it's too low.
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As I have been looking at this can the tab the brake cable goes thru be bent down
to help alleviate some of the angle |
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My cable bracket is below the springs on top of the lift saddle. Lines up like it was supposed to be that way.
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Appreciate everything you're saying, but,,when I put it under the spring it's too low. I have a feeling it's because it's a 4 inch lift instead of a 6 inch lift
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have you tried to swap sides with the bracket, and put them under the springs,
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And then it is too low.. I am going to take a small piece of metal about the size of the cable mount, drill a couple of holes and bolt it to the mount and which will let me make a lower brake cable mount, unless someone has a better idea
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Outstanding right up Sir! Thank you!
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Thank you. I'd like to point out (a lot of people miss this part) that you need to make sure the center pin in the leaf spring is long enough to go through the spring retaining plate AND the lift block. You don't want the block falling out. You may need to go to the hardware store and get an all thread bolt and double nut it.
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:thumbup: 10-4!
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Just finished the lift kit on my precedent using this method. What a difference. What a great idea and set of instructions. I was using a madjax kit so I had to make 2 more spring brackets but besides that it went together perfectly. I'm glad I took the time to do this. Cables are nice and high and out of the way and the brakes work perfect with the stock cables.
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Glad you like!
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Sorry I didn't see this sooner! :oops: Stuck! :thumbup:
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Sorry for my ignorance, this works for all years of Precedents?
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Yes. They're all the same.
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Installed my 6" lift tonite(02 DS) using this method..Thanks a bunch for the info and step by step guide!
Only thing I would like to stress is: Make SURE you have a set of snap ring pliers that are worth a crap or else you'll spend a lotta time cussing as I did! :mad: :D:D: |
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