Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
I took inventory of my MCOR’s and the serial numbers don’t match anything you’ve documented in the first post TahoeDawg:
PGM10066810 PGM10066811 PGM10066814 PMA10019355 PMA10052900 PMA10059506 PMA10052907 PMA10052909 PMA10052914 PMA10059516 PMA10052918(bad) PMA10052921 PMA10052925 PMA10052926 What’s the proper replacement for these wretched parts? They’re mounted on 2012-2013 CC Precedent Excel’s, so these serial numbers don’t make sense. |
Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
it’s funny how the barcoded serial number on the pedal assembly can’t help me... it looks so big & important TahoeDawg!
Okay, so only the VIN is relevant. I’m assuming that I’ll need a conversion kit to install a MCOR4. |
Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
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So I took the extra step to remove the pedal assemblies and found the part number that you referenced on post one. Obviously no adapter is necessary, thanks.
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They might not all be that way. That cart has an mcor 4 dated 2014. It may have already been converted. I can’t recall what year your cars were. You may have a mixture. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
Had my throttle pedal stick on me yesterday and went in search of an answer for a possible replacement spring assembly of some type and subsequently learned so much more along the way. What I discovered is that I probably have a failing MCOR as well because I do get some surging. Cart is a 2008.5 Precedent electric with a Group 1 pedal assembly. It looks like I can buy a new spring assy for the accelerator for around $60 if I need it. The pedal returned to the upright position on it's own eventually so I'm hoping it just might need a good cleaning instead. So here's my question...if I open this thing up this weekend and find the spring is terminal, would I be better off shopping for a refurb Group 2 assembly and moving to the MCOR 4 or repairing my Group 1 and replacing the MCOR 2 at the same time?
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
So I am guessing that when going slower and I am getting some slight jerking (speed up and slow down) that the MCOR is probably the culprit. Just want to make sure before I order one. Dave, i'll order from you. It's a 2014 ERIC cart is am pretty sure it's a MCOR 4.
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
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You are correct. It’s probably an mcor issue. And yes, it’s an mcor4. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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It has corrected my lunging by about 80% but it still happens. |
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
The original MCOR4 was from Mexico. My cart is a 2012 so I assumed it just wore out.
The replacement, from China, was just installed a few weeks ago and while it's better it still isn't perfect. I've reached out to the seller who is a site sponsor about returning. |
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
So our choices are an mcor4 made in Mexico or one made in China...Pick your country...Here's a good idea Club Car...Try the USA...
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
Somebody anybody help me with an MCOR for a Villager. I'm looking at the underside of the gas pedal and it looks nothing like MCOR 1-4. Is it in a different location? Should I google it under a different name than MCOR?
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Can you take a picture of it? And what year is it??
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Here it is. Looks different than anything i've dealt with in the past.
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Dang, looks like the pic posted upside down.
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
Ah, you've got the old pot box! You'll need a pre-MCOR to MCOR4 conversion kit (link below).
https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/p...conversion-kit |
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
Loved the Pot Box's. Still have to OEM ones in service today. '95 & '96 Series carts.
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
Have a 2012 cc president with mcor 4 having an issue runs fine unless i leave the run/tow switch on overnight next day cart runs slow until i shut run/tow switch off for a minute or so then runs fine again?? mcor problem?? or controller problem?? also sometimes when i turn the run/tow switch on reverse alarm wont turn on until i press the peday like 4-5 times???
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The OBC (on board computer, for charging) goes to sleep after awhile, so pumping the pedal to wake it up is completely normal. As for your issue of running slow, that could be a failing speed sensor. Does it do it every time you take the cart out? |
Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
So leave the run/tow sw on. No need to turn it off unless your going to tow it as the name implies.
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Not every time just started happening lately batteries are only year and a half old and are at 50.2 to 50.9 after full charge
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
The slow until you cycle the Tow/Run could be an indication the Solenoid is contacts are getting stuck (welded).
When that happens the cart runs at 50% power. |
Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
should i just replace the solenoid?
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
That is probably the best approach.
You could try to tap the Solenoid with a hammer wood handle when the cart is running slow to see if the issue was the contacts not releasing, but in the Precedent that is a difficult job due to the solenoid location. |
Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
Is the V-Glide or Potbox the same thing as a Multi-Step Potentiometer? My serial number starts with A0026 so I'm assuming it's a 2000 DS, but it's got the pie shaped black box on the driver's side frame in front of the batteries. I'm not sure if I'm dealing with 2 different problems or all the same thing. About a month ago my battery charging stopped working so I figured it was the OBC so I bypassed it and the relay in the charger and it was good for a while. Today as I was going across the yard it started slowing down and cutting in and out until finally it wouldn't go at all. It will click and try to move and sometimes it will move slowly for a short distance and then stops. After trying to research a little I thought it could be the MCOR but after checking I determined it doesn't have one but it has the Multi-Step Potentiometer. HELP ME PLEASE!!!!
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
The old original V-glides were 2-wire and worked a little different then the newer 3-wire (5k-0) MSP's which looked just like the V-glides. What we call a Pot Box was a Constant Varible Potentiometer and actually worked very well. I never understood why CC abandoned it and went to the MSP's. If you have the V-glide style (Pie Shaped Box) in the battery compartment of your '00, it would be an MSP. If it ever fails you, you will want to do a "Pre-MCOR conversion to it. That would bring it up to today's standard of an MCOR4.
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
Please post this down in the CC forum and we will do some troubleshooting. That way we do not clutter this thread up with testing protocols.
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
My 2017 precedent suddenly has jerky acceleration which i think is MCOR but now also...when I take my foot off the accelerator to move to the brake, the moment i remove my foot from accelerator the brakes engage automatically at 100% so i skid forward as if i all of the sudden pushed the parking brake in while driving. Also, if i let off the accelerator very slowly and move over to touch the brake, once i just touch the brake, the brakes engage at 100% and i skid and come to a stop. It is very dangerous and scary. Any ideas what could be wrong? I have video if anyone wants to see it to help.
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
I see you posted this is the forum area and is the best place to avoid cross-posting and cluttering up this thread.
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Re: MCOR / Pedal Assembly Confusion Explained
would the TPS make your cart drive by itself?? im having trouble with my cart, but it only does it at full charge, once a bar is dropped off it will stop doing this.
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With the Throttle Sensor conversion kit for the 09 precedent is the MCOR a 2 or 3?
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