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-   -   G1 Thread: Everything About G1's for Newbies (https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=76176)

slonomo 02-17-2013 01:30 PM

G1 Thread: Everything About G1's for Newbies
I thought I'd contribute a thread dedicated to G1 information geared toward new G1 owners. Here they can find all the great threads with pics and info about their "new to them" G1 golf carts.

Please post info only, no questions. Start a new thread for questions.

Please post links to "good" threads that contain quality info and pics.

Please do not post anything other than "good info" relating to G1's.

This thread will contain the basics about G1 carts, maintenance, common problems and solutions, lift kit and tire information, and custom modifications.

Let's keep this thread clean for the new forum members so they can read "everything" about G1's.

Thanks to everyone that wants to contribute, and good luck!

slonomo 02-17-2013 02:04 PM

Re: G1 Thread: Everything About G1's for Newbies
I'll start with a basic overview of the G1 gas carts.

Yamaha G1 Golf cart
Built from 1979 to 1986
Available in both 2 stroke gas and electric models

Timeline http://www.yamahagolfcar.com/corpora...rtimeline.aspx

Serial # ID http://www.3rsalesandservice.com/3r-...amaha-year.asp

The G1 gas cart is a 215cc two stroke oil injected engine. The engine was derived from a snowmobile engine, possibly the Enticer 250 since some of the parts are interchangeable and the block castings are nearly identical. They are known for their ruggedness and durability, as some of these carts are 30 yrs or older and still going strong!

Reverse gear does not exist on these carts, rather the engine turns backwards to get reverse. You'll note on the inner fender on the passenger side there are a set of solenoids. These are the components that allow the engine to start backwards and run in reverse.

The factory oil injection system mixes the oil automatically at ratios ranging from 150:1 to 300:1, according to the service manual. Sometimes these injection systems can fail and cause engine damage, so often times people disconnect them and use premixed oil/gas. Reported premix ratios range from 40:1 to 100:1, maybe even higher, and are "at your own risk". I am not recommending this modification, simply reporting what I've found on this forum. Please do this modification at your own risk and be aware that engine damage and failure can result if the mix ratio is not correct.

Power for these carts is in the 8hp range, give or take 1 depending upon weather, fuel, and driving conditions. Getting more power is not easy on these engines because they are low compression, low rpm engines and are not really designed for max power. Switching to a "big block" is not usually a good option because you would lose your reverse and would need to swap out the rear end/transaxle to a 4 stroke model with a reverse gear.

Speed of these carts have been reported around 12-15mph with the governor intact and as high as 30mph with the governor modified. Do not modify your governor or engine damage could result.

Body parts are both plastic and fiberglass. The front fenders/clip portion is some sort of a plastic material and the rear section is a reinforced fiberglass with a steel framework that tilts up for engine access.

Year Identification is typically done by verifying the serial number on the frame. The common location is behind the rear bumper on the round main frame. The number is stamped/engraved and might not be visible if there is alot of rust and dirt. Clean the area off and lightly sand the area with a scotchbrite type pad to reveal the numbers. Do not sand off the paint or rust will start there.

Lift kits are available from a couple aftermarket mfgs and some people choose to install their own fabricated lift. 4" lift is required for 20" tires. 5-6" lift is required for 22" tires. Any more than 22" tires will require some kind of a custom lift and/or swing arm drop, which is quite a lot of work for most. Some frame trimming in the wheel wells may be needed. The frame may need modified to allow clearance for the primary clutch.

slonomo 02-17-2013 02:28 PM

Re: G1 Thread: Everything About G1's for Newbies
My first recommendation is to purchase a service manual from one of our fine sponsors. The manual contains specs, procedures, drawings of pretty much everything you need to know to work on your G1. All of the info you need on the following problems can be solved with the info in the manual. Read through the entire manual and you'll learn a ton!:thumbup:

Common Problems

Since most of the G1's are high use carts and very old, your typical issues come up... tune up issues, spark plug, air filter, fuel filter, carb cleaning, clutch maintenance, belts, old gas, oil mix, dead battery, etc.

Compression needs to be in the 100psi range to run good, and a fresh rebuild should have around 120-130psi. If you happen to have a 1982 model, sorry but your engine is a lower compression unit and will be around 90-100psi. The 1982 model was Yamaha's attempt to calm down emission and noise, but they scrapped that idea when they realized how much performance was lost and for 1983 went right back to normal. Lower compression is most commonly caused by worn piston rings or oil seals.

Frame rust is always an issue, particularly in the battery tray area. Alot of people over the years cut the old tray out and don't replace it. There are a number of ways to replace the tray, but a custom fab job is likely what needs done. Some new metal angle, sheet metal, a new hold down, some cutting and welding and paint will be in the project. Some other areas are the cross tubes and swing arms because they see the most action and dirt/grime and get washed off the least. Again custom fab to repair.

Oil Injector failure is something that comes up, although I've never seen one fail, I have heard reports of that happening. If this happens it will likely cause engine damage.

Oil seals for the crankshaft are common wear points. If you have trouble starting your cart or it runs poorly, the oil seals are one of the common causes. Worn seals will cause lower compression and poor performance. Look behind the primary clutch and see if there is wetness or oil residue on the crankshaft. If so you'll likely need to to replace the seals.

Clutch issues will cause poor power and speed. The primary clutch can accumulate dirt and grease and cause the clutch to not engage properly. Taking the cover off and cleaning all the dirt and gunk out regularly will go a long way to restore performance. Don't forget to lube the shaft with a tiny amount of grease, too much will cause it to fly out into the clutch housing. The secondary clutches often wear through and/or "dish out". This causes the cart to not have a high top speed, or can cause it to have no low end power.

Drive belts will often wear out/down and cause poor shift out and poor power/speed. Replace belts regularly and measure them to make sure they are in spec.

Fuel pumps often fail in these carts. You can rebuild/clean yours so read up on that. New ones can be found for around $40-50. Or you can rig up a fuel pump from a tractor. If you don't have fuel at the carb, look to the pump or fuel filter.

Old gas is really a basic that people often forget. The gas in the tank from a cart that has been sitting is likely not any good. And likewise the gas in your gas can from last fall may not be that good either. If you can't get your cart running, buy some fresh gas and try a new plug. Don't forget to fill the oil reservoir!

More to come.....

rib33024 02-17-2013 04:04 PM

Re: G1 Thread: Everything About G1's for Newbies

So here is a quick walk though putting crank seal in the clutch side of a G1.

Step 1. remove the gas tank

Attachment 42603

Step 2. remove the outer clutch cover via the Phillips head screw
Attachment 42604

Step 3. Remove the long bolt holding the outer clutch plate one (7/8" head)Remove the outer clutch plate

Step 4. Remove the drive belt and starter belt.
Attachment 42605

Step 5. Using a clutch puller (can be bought or you can make your own. I bought mine) remove the inner clutch plate/shaft
Attachment 42606

Step 6. Remove the oil pump gear housing and pull BOTH the inner and outer housing off of the engine case
Attachment 42607

Step 7. run a screw into the seal and using a claw hammer pry the old seal out.

Step 8. put the new seal in (put some oil on the part of the seal where it slides on the crank shaft to keep it from catching and tearing).

Step 9. Reinstall everything the way it came off.

Hope this helps




mwar410 02-17-2013 05:11 PM

Re: G1 Thread: Everything About G1's for Newbies
I would have to say that the electrical is by far the #1 issue with these carts. The sticky up top ( so your yami won't start) is very helpful, take your time and go through it twice or more. Don't think that it couldn't be that, double check it and you'll find the problem.

slonomo 02-18-2013 07:22 AM

Re: G1 Thread: Everything About G1's for Newbies

Originally Posted by mwar410 (Post 840698)
I would have to say that the electrical is by far the #1 issue with these carts. The sticky up top ( so your yami won't start) is very helpful, take your time and go through it twice or more. Don't think that it couldn't be that, double check it and you'll find the problem.

Here's the link


slonomo 02-18-2013 07:25 AM

Re: G1 Thread: Everything About G1's for Newbies
Fuel Pump

Here is the link to the fuel pump thread. If you have checked the fuel line at the carb and you aren't getting fuel, it could be your fuel pump or fuel filter. Change or remove the filter first. If that's not it, check this link....


MoosinAround 02-19-2013 07:16 AM

Re: G1 Thread: Everything About G1's for Newbies
First of all, great idea on this thread Slo! :thumbup: I'm a newbie myself (bought my G1 last fall) I've found lots of great info on this site. One tidbit I came across (Sorry, no link as I don't remember where :lhmo: ) Has to do with what I'm guessing would be a common upgrade, adding lights.

The frame on the G1 is NOT grounded. If you wish to add lights or other electrical accessories you will have to run a ground lead as well as a positive lead back to the battery. Many of the new light assemblies for tailights, marker lights, etc for auto/trailer applications don't even have a ground wire. They rely on a screw into metal to ground. You can still use these, just mount with a machine screw and attach a ground lead to the back side with a nut and washer. I'll try and get some pics of my tailight install up this weekend.

slonomo 02-22-2013 11:11 PM

Re: G1 Thread: Everything About G1's for Newbies

These parts are mounted on the passenger side inner fenderwell and are responsible for directing power to the starter/gen. One solenoid is used for forward operation. The other is used for reverse. If you are having trouble with one direction but not the other, look to these solenoid or the related wiring. If you do not have a service manual, this would be one area that you should consider getting one to help you. The wiring diagrams will help you figure out where things go and what does what.

Some related links:



Alot of the problems I've read about have been attributed to loose connections, corrosion on terminals and connections, and frayed or chaffed wires. Make sure you get a really good flashlight and trace the wires you think are suspect and inspect them from one end to the other. Most times you'll find the issue.

spriddle 02-23-2013 10:05 PM

Re: G1 Thread: Everything About G1's for Newbies
I'm going to stick this thread by Monday, so if you look for it, it will be in the top section. That way it doesn't get lost. Lots of great info. Thanks.

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