diagnostic test result
 

99 ezgo txt series 36v


*CONTROLLER OUTPUT Connect (-) probe to M- terminal.*
Connect (+) probe to B+ terminal.*
The reading should indicate approx. 0 volts.
Slowly depress accelerator pedal.*
The reading should show the voltage increasing to battery voltage when fully depressed. If the voltage is at or near battery voltage and the motor is not turning, then the problem lies in either the forward/reverse switch, the wiring, or the motor.
If the voltage increases by a few volts and then stops changing while the pedal is being depressed, remove the orange wire at the "Reverse Micro switch".*
If the voltage is not at or near battery voltage, replace the controller.*
If battery voltage is present, the problem lies in the reverse circuit.*
Re-connect the orange wire.


Cart is running
passed all tests.......but is only getting 35.1v fully depressed
is this considered at or near battery voltage of 38?
Any ideas
thanks

Re: diagnostic test result
 

Adjust ITS throttle.

Re: diagnostic test result
 

When measuring between the M- and B+ terminals on the controller in a series drive cart, the voltage ought to at or about Zero when the pedal is just pushed far enough for the solenoid to click and then should increase to the Full battery pack voltage (at the time), less about 0.5V for every 100A of current flowing through controller.

If you are monitoring the voltage between M- and B+ while driving the cart, the battery pack voltage may very well have dropped from 38.0V to 35.1V while under load.

If you have two voltmeters connect one between the controllers B- and B+ terminal and the other between M- and B+ terminal. Those two readings should be nearly the same when traveling at max speed with pedal on floor.

If you only have one voltmeter, measure between M- and B+ and then measure between B- and B+ while traveling over same stretch of road.

If the voltage readings aren't almost the same (within 0.5V or so when traveling at max speed on level ground), than the ITS may be out of adjustment or bad. or the controller is sick.

Re: diagnostic test result
 

This was measured while on blocks

Re: diagnostic test result
 

I am trying to figure out why I have really low torque. Wont go up much of an incline.
good batteries,orig 6 g cables stock controller solenoid and fnr switch.

what do you think would be the first thing to fix or upgrade?
Thanks
ps is this stock or correct solenoid? I cant see the amp rating

Re: diagnostic test result
 

Looks like a stock 85A solenoid. Needs to be 200A or higher.
The 6Ga cables ought to be replaced with at least 4Ga. (all 13 of them)

What size tires?
What is the battery pack voltage while trying to go uphill?

Re: diagnostic test result
 

It has a lift and 22 11 8 tires.
I will try to test battery voltage while going uphill.

Re: diagnostic test result
 

Johnnie b,
When sitting still bat pack v is 38.0
when full throttle full speed level ground 35.1
when starting up an incline it drops to 33
is this normal?

Re: diagnostic test result
 

When sitting still bat pack v is 38.0
when full throttle full speed level ground 35.1
when starting up an incline it drops to 33
is this normal?

Re: diagnostic test result
 

Larger tires kill torque, and even with stock tires, a series buggy will slow down going uphill, and the worse the batteries and/or SoC, the slower it will get. Even when my batteries were at the end of their life, I never met a hill I couldn't climb, but it got to the point where I could almost walk faster on steep hills with four riders. Since you have larger tires, the motor will pull more amps, so the voltage drop "may" be normal, depending on weight of passengers, battery SoC, and steepness of hill. May be time for an upgrade.