Columbia 48V Car Issue
 

The car will intermittently quit at random times. You can switch the direction selector back to Neutral and then back to F or R and the car will start to run again. I did notice that there is one long flash then one short flash on the controller. I also noticed that if you turn the power switch on with the cart in either F or R the cart will not move til you move the direction switch to N. After that you can choose F or R and the cart will start to move again. What could be causing this issue?

Re: Columbia 48V Car Issue
 

Sound like you might have an intermittent f/r switch (these go bad a lot). If the controller loses the signal from the switch while moving it doesn't know what to do about it so gives the fault codes.

As far as the reset you do....depending on the age and/or when the controller was programmed....the "earlier" carts had to be in the N position at the point of power turn on. That was later changed as an electric cart doesn't care as long as it isn't moving or foot on the go pedal.

Re: Columbia 48V Car Issue
 

Thanks for the info. I think this cart does require the F and R switch to be in N before the switch is turned on. Where is the best place to get a replacement F and R switch?

Re: Columbia 48V Car Issue
 

Re: Columbia 48V Car Issue
 

Simular problem but now a no go. My 2008 Columbia Par Car acts as the first post indicates in that the R/N/F switch must be in the N position when turning on the key prior to selecting F or R in order for the cart to operate. Occaisionally after hitting a bump for example the cart just stops operating. This situation has been present throughout our ownership. When it happens we just turn off the key, select Neutral, wait to hear a a click when tuning the key back on, then select Forward again and we're on our way.

Yesterday with no bump at a very slow speed it just stopped and would not do it's usual reset. When the key is turned on a click is heard as the solonoid activates then half a second later a softer click is heard as the solonoid mounted on the motor mount behind the batteries deactivates.

Cleaned all contacts assuming a bad solonoid - no change.

Now I'm thinking it's another problem, (perhaps the R/N/F switch as mentioned here).

Is it a bad solonoid turning itself back off? Or, is it something else like the R/N/F switch? Is there another relay between ignition/R/N/F swt that could be cutting off pwr to the solonoid a half second after activation or is this a s symptom of a bad solonoid?

Appreciate your help,

Re: Columbia 48V Car Issue
 

Here’s another check. I’ve seen connections where the main harness plugs into the controller be intermittent. Have had a few where we unplug the harness, clean both sides with electronic cleaner then plug back in but actually use some zip ties to make sure that harness stays fully seated. Cheaper than replacing the harness. Not the preferred repair but for diagnosing it helps narrow the possibilities down.

Re: Columbia 48V Car Issue
 

Further troubleshooting to rule out the solonoid - with meter connected to actuating connectors to the solonoid and flipping on the key, the voltage jumps during its actuation and the falls back to zero. So, what is cutting off the voltage?

While observing the controller during this sequence the blue light illuminates once and then cycles with a sequence of 4 flashes when key is turned on. Sure wish I had a maintenance manual for this thing!

Re: Columbia 48V Car Issue
 

Solenoid will kick out if senses an issue. Cant really troubleshoot that way. Coil will be 52ohms across when disconnected from harness though.

When active the coil has 48 + on one side and 24+ on the other side. Neither side isbat zero or connected to “ground”.

Four flash could also be a stuck motor brush. If a brush is stuck or not moving smooth the controller detects and immediately shuts off contactor to protect the controller.

Re: Columbia 48V Car Issue
 

Grab the manual from here: https://evtechnicalservices.com/colu...anuals-current

For controller or contactor help just use the eu or summit sections, they haven't changed those. Wiring diagrams are in the parts books and troubleshooting is in the service books.

Re: Columbia 48V Car Issue
 

Appreciate the help and hints. Contactor(solonoid) actuating coil is right around that 52 ohms. I do get a fluctuation when pressing the bottom pin to make contact right near the point it makes contact with the 48V lugs but I don't think that would be the problem. It just doesn't read a steady 52 ohms throughout its movement.

Working on checking the brushes now. They are really tight in their holders and it's hard to detect any wiggle movement at all. I would think that when the spring pressure is released you would be able to tug them out a bit but no joy yet. I still have a couple to examine and will share results. Fingers crossed I still have a healthy controller!