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-   -   Electric club car help (https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=180371)

nitro1 10-24-2021 09:17 PM

Electric club car help
 
Hey guys looking for some tips on a electric club car year unknown but the seller said it ran fine till the forward and reverse switch got toasted, if there anyway I can bypass the f&r switch go make it move ?

Reddawg454 10-25-2021 06:34 AM

Re: Electric club car help
 
I would think you could bolt a couple of cables together and get either forward or reverse with no way to switch direction.

Swan 10-25-2021 06:51 AM

Re: Electric club car help
 
what is the serial number , that will tell what drive system it has

nitro1 10-25-2021 02:53 PM

Re: Electric club car help
 
Tag says A8717116401

I need new wires and forward and reverse switch, is there a heavy duty switch I can buy ? Sorry first electric cart

CP241 10-25-2021 03:01 PM

Re: Electric club car help
 
Maybe a silly question but have you tried taking it apart and cleaning the contacts?

If it does need to be replaced, a contactor upgrade is about the same price as a HD FNR switch (or less if you DIY) and much more robust option

Either way unless it’s completely melted, you should be able to clean the contacts and make the cart function for testing. There’s really not much to them once you take it apart.

nitro1 10-25-2021 03:09 PM

Re: Electric club car help
 
I’ll look at it more tomorrow on the fire damage, btw anyone know the year of my cart so I can look into parts……will definitely need cables

Goober11 10-25-2021 05:16 PM

Re: Electric club car help
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by nitro1 (Post 1859194)
i’ll look at it more tomorrow on the fire damage, btw anyone know the year of my cart so i can look into parts……will definitely need cables

1987

CP241 10-25-2021 05:50 PM

Re: Electric club car help
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by nitro1 (Post 1859194)
I’ll look at it more tomorrow on the fire damage, btw anyone know the year of my cart so I can look into parts……will definitely need cables

Even with bad cables, a 1987 is a toaster cart. As long as there’s around 30v it should be enough for the solenoid to fire and make the rear wheels move on jackstands. I’d still take the FNR apart, clean anything metal to make it shiny, and put it back together. Should be enough contact for a jackstand test to make sure everything works.

If there’s more damage and stuff isn’t working still, I’d say it’s time to upgrade the entire drive system to a controller and 36v or 48v. You can easily spend several hundred dollars on FNR, solenoids, cables, and still find that there’s a bad motor or something. And ultimately there’s only so much you can do with a 36v resistor cart, it will never be particularly fast nor torquey. Upgrading the drive system will fix all of that.

Just my .02 but I’d diagnose the cart as fully as possible before spending any money on it. The older carts especially, you could very easily and quickly exceed the value of the cart making it work.

nitro1 10-25-2021 07:24 PM

Re: Electric club car help
 
CP241 I would like to upgrade anyways so really don’t want to buy anything as the cart sits, I like to go 48v system and find a complete kit for torque so I can build a somewhat of a hunting cart

Any idea on what to look into purchasing?? Nothing fancy just more torque than stock is fine

CP241 10-25-2021 08:43 PM

Re: Electric club car help
 
I’m no expert, but I’d say it really depends on your budget.

Scottyb and others have a complete conversion kit to change it to a solid state speed controller. It’s a predeveloped kit so installation would be pretty straight forward, But it’s kinda pricey.

You could also DIY. You can convert the v-glide to work with an alltrax or other speed controller with a bit of rewiring. Basically you’d employ resistors on the output side of the v-glide and wire those into the throttle input for a speed controller. The resistor sizes/values are pretty easy to find on here. Then delete the coils, buy a controller and you can use the existing motor. This method financially would put you out a FNR switch (that you need anyway), controller, solenoid, and some wiring. But you could convert fairly cheaply to 48v with this method. It’s a lot more hands on, but saves a ton of $.


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