Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum (https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/index.php)
-   Electric Yamaha (https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/forumdisplay.php?f=18)
-   -   2010 YDRE3, No history, won't run, trouble shooting (https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=179734)

JPonLKN 09-26-2021 06:22 PM

2010 YDRE3, No history, won't run, trouble shooting
 
Ok, first of all, I am a Gas EZGO guy, with no experience with Yamaha or Sparky carts, so bear with me.
A friend of mine has a 2010 YDRE3, 4 x 12v set up, and it quit working. Very stock machine, still at work on a golf course. They did some work on it to try and figure it out...but I don't know exactly what, as he didn't do the work, and can't elaborate. I have the cart now, and offered to trouble shoot and figure out where they went wrong and what it needs, then try and get it running again.

First, the batteries are a tad low. I get 45.5 volts to the solenoid. All the terminals from the controller to the motor appear to be hooked up correctly, at least the A1 to A1, A2 to A2, F1 to F1, and F2 to F2 all appear to be connected properly. With the key off, using a volt meter and ground probe on the negative battery terminal at the end of the set, I get battery voltage to all 4 of the solenoid terminals. Clearly, there is an issue with the solenoid. The fact that it is getting voltage across the terminals with the key off, makes me believe there is an electrical draw, and maybe a wiring issue somewhere else, so I am not surprised the batteries are a bit low. Each measures High 10s to low 11 volts. I didn't bring a charger with me, he had just charged the batteries, so didn't expect I would need it. Oops. I will bet it next weekend when I see him again.

I don't have a manual for it, so I don't know any of the diagnostics to verify controller, motor, or even verify if the wiring is correct. I would not be surprised if there are wiring issues. They reportedly replaced the harness between the motor and controller. Not sure why it was needed.

Anyone have any thoughts on where to start in verifying electrical parts? How about a manual for it? How low of a battery bank charge can I go and still have it operate? I would think it should operate at below 48Volts, just not at full speed. Thoughts?

What voltage should I be getting to the small terminal on the solenoid?

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

JPonLKN 09-26-2021 08:21 PM

Re: 2010 YDRE3, No history, won't run, trouble shooting
 
Ok, so I found a wiring diagram. Very difficult to read as in it isn't a clear print, but I can't figure out why I would have battery voltage to the small terminal on the solenoid. I guess what I need are:
What voltages should I see at the small terminal on the solenoid with key off? and key on? and key on, pedal depressed? If I get those, I can trace backward to find the offending component.

I get that I should see 48 volts at the big incoming terminal on the solenoid, and should only see that voltage on the other big terminal when there is voltage to the other small terminal. The problem is that I have voltage at all 4 terminals with the key off. I should have ground continuity to the ground side, but no voltage. Something is shorted in either the key switch, run/tow switch, or something else. What other items might be shorted, and how do I diagnose each item?

EDIT: FYI, 3 amp fuse is good, reverse buzzer works as it should.

Volt_Ampere 09-26-2021 10:55 PM

Re: 2010 YDRE3, No history, won't run, trouble shooting
 
You should have voltage on the terminals. The controller grounds one of the small terminals to energize the solenoid. There is a "precharge resistor" across the big terminals that will put battery voltage on both sides when the cart is idle. 45.5V is very low battery voltage - indicating that the batteries need a charge. Again, none of the solenoid terminals should be at ground except when the solenoid is energized by the controller. You don't say if the solenoid clicks or not when you push the pedal. It should also click for a couple seconds when you move the run/tow switch from tow to run. It should also click and the motor should resist movement if you push the cart with the run/tow switch in the run position. (you should get a beep also when pushing it)

ojo 09-27-2021 04:38 AM

Re: 2010 YDRE3, No history, won't run, trouble shooting
 
1 Attachment(s)
You should really start with the batteries... pack voltage of 45.5v is simply dead :shock: the batteries should never been discharged so far ( see encl. SOC chart ). Try to fully charge them, let them rest for some hours and check the voltage.

If it's still low, measure each single battery also, probably one of them could be bad.

sleeplesstwo 09-27-2021 12:29 PM

Re: 2010 YDRE3, No history, won't run, trouble shooting
 
The brake switch is a common problem. It is located at the base of the brake pedal. It can be easily tested with a meter. The throttle potentiometer is also a bit of a trouble spot on this cart. Both of these items can get pretty nasty due to the location under the floor pan.

If you push the cart forward with no application to either pedals, the roll away protection should kick in and attempt to stop the cart. If the cart does not respond when pushed, I would start checking the motor. I have seen the brushes stick in the retainers, causing some very strange issues. If the brushes are not contacting the commutator correctly it will cause the controller to not respond to roll away, and also not move at all.

With motor leads disconnected check continuity between A1 and A2. You should have continuity.

mike w 09-28-2021 07:13 AM

Re: 2010 YDRE3, No history, won't run, trouble shooting
 
Did you resolve the problem on this cart?? Having similar issues

JPonLKN 09-28-2021 01:50 PM

Re: 2010 YDRE3, No history, won't run, trouble shooting
 
Not yet. Headed to pick up the charger for it now. Haven't had a chance to troubleshoot it but figured I ought to have a full charge on the batteries before I do to eliminate that as a possible issue. I'll report back when I get a chance to go through what was suggested so far

JPonLKN 09-28-2021 05:52 PM

Re: 2010 YDRE3, No history, won't run, trouble shooting
 
Ok, so when I have it run, key off and push it, i can push the cart, and will get a beep. When I switch from tow to run, the solenoid clicks.
With the key on, in run, push the pedal and get nothing. No solenoid click and no energized motor. The motor does resist movement when pushed, but doesn't stop movement.

I also don't see a brake switch. There is a plunger switch that operates off the left side of the accelerator by an arm, and a plug with blue black and yellow conductors on the right side of the accelerator pivot shaft.

JPonLKN 09-28-2021 06:16 PM

Re: 2010 YDRE3, No history, won't run, trouble shooting
 
2 Attachment(s)
Attachment 224282

Attachment 224283
Photos of the pedal area

Also of note, just provided by the owner, there have been some issues of late, wiggling wires at run/tow switch made it work again. Doesn't work now. Any way to test this switch? Simple on/off switch?

Volt_Ampere 09-28-2021 06:33 PM

Re: 2010 YDRE3, No history, won't run, trouble shooting
 
Run/Tow switch is a standard on/off simple switch. It should have battery voltage on both sides when in Run mode. It feeds power to the ignition switch. There is a 3 amp fuse providing power to that circuit.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:08 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This Website and forum is the property of Buggiesgonewild.com. No material may be taken or duplicated in part or full without prior written consent of the owners of buggiesgonewild.com. © 2006-2017 Buggiesgonewild.com. All rights reserved.