Engine Mounting
One of the bigger challenges with a big block swap is mounting the new engine. There are engine mounts available for many of the newer models, but some older less common ones seem to be left out. Bolt in engine mounts are not cheap, but save lots of time and eliminates the need to fabricate. The engine mounts in the kits are usually adjustable to some degree. Some companies make entire installation kits with all the parts you need and directions.
If a kit is not an option, the solution is to fabricate your own. I have seen anything from fully welded works of art to mounts made with scrap steel and even wood.
Anything that holds the engine straight and level and has good strength should do, but really, this mount has a lot of load on it from the torque of the engine and the cvt system, so it should be made well.
The basic idea is to have a flat steel plate, minimum 3/16", or even aluminum in 1/4". The engines typically have 4 mounting holes on the bottom, so the plate should have matching holes to accommodate. The better mounts have slotted holes so you can slide the engine forward and backwards to get your drive belt tight. The best mounts also have some side to side adjustability.
Some home built mounting plates simply bolt to the original engine mounting plate, some need more fabrication and welding to get the mount fitted. Either way, one of the more important design elements is that the engine sits level front to back and side to side. The engine sitting level helps with oil flow and distribution inside the crankcase. Getting this wrong could starve your engine of oil and cause major damage. Care should be taken when building the engine plate.
These photos are some examples.