[sadtaco]

I bought an inline fuse block as well and plan on using that. I think you pretty much answered my question. I read last night that the regulator is primarily for the voltage coming back from the generator to the battery to step the voltage down since it is too high to charge the battery. Other diagrams I have seen had the lights running straight from the battery with a 10amp fuse inline.
Now that I think about it, the stock wiring had the same setup.

Last night I did a POC (proof of concept) and wired and tested the flashers and headlights, and they all work great. The reason the signals didnt flash when the headlights were on was I didnt have a good ground to the rear lights. I only have one missing link right now, and thats isolating the front turn signals from the brake pedal switch. When i hit the brakes the front signals light up. Since the tailights are integrated turn, stop and "on", its fine if they light up in the rear.


1) 10amp fused positive lead from battery to a two way off/on switch for lights and accessories up front; one wire from switch to ground, and one positive lead to the lights.
2) Power lead from light & accessories switch to turn signal blinker (X), and power lead from blinker (L) to 3 way turn signal toggle switch (left, off, right)
3) Turn signals (front) individually grounded, and connected to toggle switch for signals (Left->left, off, right<-Right)
4) Taillights individually grounded and "on" or power lead connected to lights/accessories switch, and one wire from each connected to turn signals toggle switch up front.
5) LED signal indicator bulbs (left, right) on dash connected to toggle switch up front.
6) Brake light switch connected to turn signal circuit (load), and positive (+) connected to power/lights.

This is just a POC, now that everything is verified, I'll wire everythng to fuse block, and possibly use lower guage wire. I just need to figure out how to isolate the front signals from the brake light switch so it cancels them out.