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Old 06-28-2015, 11:04 AM   #18
rmauthe
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1
Default Re: ezgo controller testing

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
First - Charge your batteries.
Their State of Charge is only 65% and the plates are sulfating as we speak.

It is best to start troubleshooting (or a drive) with a fully charged battery pack. (38.2V)

A 94 Medalist could have either a Series drive or a DCS drive, which do you have?
(If there is a Run/Tow switch on controller cover, it is a DCS)

The phrase: "at first 2 posts on controller" is relative to the the position a person is viewing from. The posts are labeled B+, B- and M- and depending on type controller, there could be one labeled A2 as well as a pair of smaller posts labeled F1 & F2.

If the solenoid does not click when throttle pedal is pushed, troubleshoot the solenoid activation circuit.
If the solenoid clicks when pedal is pushed, you should have full battery pack voltage on both main terminals of solenoid.
If you do, attach DVM test leads to B- and M- posts on controller.
When pedal is pushed just far enough for solenoid to click, you should read full pack voltage.
If you don't, you have a open somewhere in the high current circuit.
If you do, slowly press pedal to floor. (Be sure to have rear wheels off ground while doing this, or cart might run over someone or something.)
As pedal is pressed to floor, the voltage should decrease to near zero.
If not, either controller or ITS circuit is bad.

Good luck.
I get a reading of about 26 v on the controller side of the solenoid when the solenoid is not activated. When I activate the solenoid by pressing the accelerator I get full 38.4 v. Test lead on B- and M-....accelerator slowly to the floor.....no change in voltage....38.4 V. Bad controller? Why do I get the 26 v with the solenoid not activated? Connections removed from the large lugs on the solenoid I get 0.04 ohms reading across the lugs. Bad resistor?

Rick
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