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Old 05-17-2015, 12:05 PM   #7
JohnnieB
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Join Date: Jun 2011
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Default Re: DCS controller testing and ITS throttle test

Quote:
Originally Posted by monte5211 View Post
Thanks for your help. My voltage at b- to b+ was 36.8 with everything off, and is 34.4 full pedal. at b- to A1 it is 36.8 and then goes to 27.7 full pedal. My batteries are new and read 36.9 volts. When I plug in my charger it doesn't kick on. So I think they are full enough to not be calling for a charge? The test at the 10 pin black wire is 14.0 volts. The test on the white wire was .5 and climbs smoothly to 1.7v. The solenoid does click and is new. My old one was clicking also but I replaced it to rule that out. I didn't realize the nut on the FNR switch was for tension, so I started to take it off, when it released the spring I put it right back on. But now my forward doesn't seem to kick the solenoid. Reverse still kicks the solenoid so I think I need to adjust the FNR switch now.
Your new batteries are less than 65% charged, so the plates are sulfating as we speak.

Even when the battery pack is fully charged, your charger ought to turn on when it is plugged into cart. It may only stay on for a few moments. but ought to turn on due to the fact that a fully charged 36V battery pack is about 38.2V and the shut-off voltage for the charger is about 45V.

What make/model charger do you have?
Whatever is keeping it from turning on needs to be fixed before fixing the cart since sitting at 65% SoC is killing your new batteries and the cart not moving isn't hurting them.

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The nut only adjusts how hard the F/R lever is to move.
What causes the cart to run in Forward or Reverse are the lumps and indentations on the outside circumference of metal disk the nut holds on.

The two switches are "Run" and "Reverse". When the lever in in F, on the Runs switch is activated. When the lever is in R, both are activated.
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