[CharleyL]

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You likely have a dirty/rusted gas tank, and from running it, this dirty gas has plugged up your carburetor.

The electric fuel pump that I put on my Truckster is just a standard electric fuel pump for a 6 cylinder car that I purchased at the local auto parts store.

The ones available today are self regulating at 4-6 lbs, so fuel pressure isn't a problem. Do put an inline fuel filter between the cleaned out gas tank and the fuel pump. Also, position the fuel pump at as close to the same level as the tank outlet. They don't suck up hill very well. Run the outlet of the fuel pump directly to the carburetor inlet, and if the carb is a Kehin, look for the tiny filter in the inlet pipe of the carburetor. If it's still in there, pull it out and trash it. They are no longer available and you will be better off without it. . Throw away the bypass filter (the one with three connections). You only need that when using the original three connection filter when using the original positive displacement fuel pump. They haven't made that original fuel pump in years, so if you find one for sale, it will be very expensive, and won't last long because the rubber parts have already gone bad while sitting on the shelf. I removed the original fuel pump from my Truckster and made a blocking plate and gasket to cover the hole.

The carburetor is going to need a thorough dis-assembly, cleaning and replacement of gaskets and other parts. There is a rebuild kit, but it can be hard to find. The float needs to be replaced too, even if it looks OK, and it needs to be purchased separately. It isn't part of the rebuild kit, but should be.. Over the years, plastic floats do absorb volatiles from the fuel and float lower in the carburetor bowl. The result is an engine running too rich. Make certain that all of the passages in the carburetor are clean. I used a single strand of 20 ga copper wire to clear the passages in mine. The one from the accelerator to the throat of the carburetor took the most effort.

If you don't thoroughly clean out of replace your fuel tank, it will be the source of never ending problems. There is a special fuel tank relining kit available with an etchant, a rinse, and an epoxy-like liner. The end result is totally cleaned and ready for another life time fuel tank. I wouldn't hesitate to carry drinking water in a tank that has had this treatment. It will fix pin holes and with a piece of fiberglass, even larger holes. It's available from Amazon. The one that I used comes from KBS Coatings and it's more expensive than others, because it's designed to fix the problem permanently. This one is for up to a 5 gallon tank. There are others larger.

amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-52000-Sealer-Gallon/dp/B000IBDIX2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1IWJ7CD3WH9M5&dchild=1&keywords=kb s+coatings+52000+cycle+tank+sealer+kit&qid=1634598 502&sprefix=kbs+coatings%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-1

You will need some short pieces of fuel line and a couple of bolts to push in to plug the fuel tank ports, and a good way to seal the fill port. I just bought another fuel cap. Also plan on having some fat pipe cleaners to use after adding the coating and draining the excess, to use for cleaning the excess material out of the fuel lines of the tank. I used some old Christmas decoration fuzzy candy canes that were made with a red and a white kind-of pipe cleaners twisted together and bent to form a candy cane for hanging on the tree.

The process will take a few hours of attention, spread out in about 15 minute increments over about a week to do it right. I had about a 1/2" layer of rusty crust in the bottom of my tank, so added a hand full of landscaping white gravel to the tank to help break up this crust when shaking the tank with the etchant, and then the rinse. The result is amazing. They should do this with all new fuel tanks, and they would last forever.

Good luck with your restoration. Post again with questions and I'll do my best to answer them. I check in here almost every day.

Charley