Quote:
Originally Posted by barcloverranch
Thanks for the quick reply Johnnieb,
Okay so I do get a full load between the B- and M- on the controller with pedal pushed.
Sorry, but I dont understand where you're saying to follow next?
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If by "full load" you mean you are getting full battery pack voltage between B- and M- when pedal is pushed just far enough for solenoid to click, what follows in my previous post does not apply.
Next step in your case is to push the pedal further and the voltage between B- and M- ought to decrease to zero as pedal reaches floor.
If it doesn't, the problem is either the throttle input to the controller is bad, or the controller is bad.
IIRC, the conversion kit has a pot-box throttle, so disconnect the black ans white wires that connect to the push on terminals on top of the controller and measure between the disconnected wires with an Ohmmeter.
When the pedal is up, you should get about 0Ω and when you slowly push pedal to floor, the reading should smoothly climb to about 5,000Ω.
If it doesn't, chances are the controller is bad.
However, verify that you get pack voltage on the third small wire to the controller. That is what powers up the controller on and if the controller isn't turned on, it will have the same symptoms as a bad controller.
BTW: it is a good idea to lift the rear tires off the ground and put on jackstands, so the cart doesn't take off unexpectedly and run over someone of something.
Also, I'd verify the motor runs. You can move the cable on the M- terminal over to the B- terminal, ending up with moth the M- cable and the B- cable on the B- terminal, which bypasses controller and throttle. When the pedal is pushed far enough to make the solenoid click, the motor will connected directly to the battery and run wide open until pedal is released. so be careful.