View Single Post
Old 11-16-2021, 02:25 AM   #27
Cartmaster
British born Nincompoop
 
Cartmaster's Avatar
E-Z-GO
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 2,463
Default Re: toro workman belt problems and acceleration

EDIT.

Since writing the information below, I have managed to look at the electrical diagram for your 2110. If yours is all wired correctly, you have a kill wire at the key switch already and will shut the engine down when you turn it off. If you pull the plug off of the pedal switch and bridge the violet and blue ( I think ) wires, the engine should start as soon as you turn the key switch to the on position. If so, that is all you need to do. The black and brown wires at the pedal switch are the other kill circuit and are not needed, so bridge only the above wires (blue and violet ) and tape it up, then tuck the wires up away from the pedal. Then if this works, adjust the carb idle screw as detailed below. Hopefully this will work and you will not need to do any of what I have detailed below. I will leave all this information for others to see and to refer to if we need to go any further.
Just remember to check that the generator is still working by putting a volt meter across the battery and see if the volts rise when you start the engine. You should see it drop when starting to about 10 volts and then rise up to around 14.5 volts with the engine running at a fast idle.


Ok, if you want it to just keep running, the easiest route is to remove the pedal kill wire off of the engine. Then when you push the pedal to start, it will keep running. You may have to adjust the idle screw on the carb to allow it to run but not close the clutch. Just find a happy place for the idle. Once you have done this, the cart will start when you turn the key to on and then push the pedal as normal. The problem now is how to stop the engine. Do me a favor and run the engine as slowly as possible, turn off the ignition switch and see if the engine stops. If so we need do nothing with the kill circuit. It may have an RPM shutdown device that keeps the engine running if revs are above around 1300 rpm. This allows you to slow down smoothly. It will not be required for the conversion later on and should not affect the test if the revs are low enough.

We may be able to disable this device for this test if necessary.

If it does not stop the engine, depending on what type of ignition switch you have, this is is a simple fix simple too. You just need to run a wire from where the kill wire was connected to the engine, run it to a normally open switch or push button on the dash and connect the other switch terminal to ground. easiest way to do this is run a two conductor wire from the engine to the dash switch or button and one conductor connects to the kill connection and the other to the nearest bolt on the engine.

If you really want it all done with the ignition switch, you will need an ignition switch that has the start and engine kill function and remove the pedal switch and rewire it at the new ignition switch for start and stop. I cant give you much detail on how to do this until i know what ignition switch you will use.

Do me a favor and get me pictures of the existing ignition switch with the wires connected and also with the wires removed. I think it is all in a plug on the back of the switch, so close up pics with and without it plugged in. Also when you turn the switch key, does it seem to have two or three positions, ie, off/on/and spring loaded third position. If so, it may already be a crank start switch fitted and you just need to adapt the wiring to it. If not, a new switch will be required.

This may involve moving or extending the pedal switch wiring if not long enough and using some or all four of the wires at the key switch. You will need to determine which wires do what before we can do this, so if you can also take close up pictures of the pedal switch connections, again with and without it plugged in. You may have to cut off some heat shrink tubing to achieve this. Once I have all this information, I may be able to walk you through the conversion. No promises but I hope you have basic electrical skills and knowledge before attempting this.

Depending on what ignition switch you have, we may be able to use it as it is simply by bridging two wires and the engine would start as soon as you turn the key and stop when you turn the key back off. You never know, you may be lucky. I will have to look at the correct circuit diagram and your pictures and answers to my questions to determine what to do next.

The only thing we would have to do after this is to confirm that the starter/generator is still charging the battery as normal.

Personally, i would keep it as it is though for regular starting and stopping unless you want to have the headlights on while the vehicle is parked as this would drain the battery without the engine running to keep it charging.

I hope this helps you decide your next move.

Last edited by Cartmaster; 11-16-2021 at 04:35 AM.. Reason: added information
Cartmaster is offline   Reply With Quote