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Old 11-01-2011, 09:03 PM   #11
gcart715
Not Yet Wild
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 11
Default Re: ez go gas marthon clicking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Box View Post
Hello gcart,

First off here is a little history of the early EZGO gas carts.

-In 1976 the so-called '2pg'--a 244cc, Fuji Heavy Industries/Robin Engine--with an internal starter generator (st/gen), became standard. Repair parts are still available except for the crankshaft assembly, the voltage regulator/starter relay and the internal st/gen stator & field.

-In 1980, an external, Hitachi brand starter generator was introduced and the engine was modified. The crank bearings, drive clutch, point set & condenser, voltage regulator and the engine frame all changed.

-1981 ushered in an electronic ignition system, which did away with the golf carts point set & condenser altogether, and the point activator lobe on the crankshaft soon went away too. Except for the addition of an oil injection system, this engine went virtually unchanged until 1989 when the 3pg golf cart engine replaced it. Although the two engines are similar, many parts are very different.

You will note above that many important parts for you cart are no longer available. I mention this only because I would not want you to spend a huge amount of money on say a new gas tank only to find that the starter was shot and cannot be replaced. In addition that is not a pulley that is missing it is the drive clutch, (it is possible that the original owner removed a valuable item, sold it separately and then sold the cart), a new clutch is going to be ~ $260.

I am sorry to be the bearer of this miserable news and I appreciate that this is not the greatest start to your week, however maybe we can salvage something here.

If you do get this running you might find a used clutch and you can get it mobile. The first step will be to ensure that all the grounds are secure. There should be a bolt on the chassis with three grounds, one to the battery, one to the direction switch and one to the engine. All of these must be clean and tight.

Next we need to see if the engine cranks. That clicking is (hopefully) the solenoid clicking. It is quite common for the solenoid to form some corrosion internally and fail to make the connection. I suggest that you locate the solenoid and place a direct short across the two large terminals. If the engine cranks we have diagnosed a solenoid issue. If it still does not crank then we may have a starter issue. At this stage you need to decide if you want to investigate the starter and see if it is as simple as the brushes being worn.

But first see what happens when you short the solenoid.

Dave

do you know if the solenoid is internal? I cleaned the grounds and tightened them but still clicking, I tried to find the solenoid but no luck.
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