It won't move at all and I cant figure it out

[Fulmenjacio]

A few weeks ago I purchased a very rough 1995 48v Club Car DS that "Was working" when parked several years ago. I replaced the batteries and only got a click from the solenoid, but no movement. I went through a trouble shooting video found on youtube and couldn't figure out whats going on. I've replaced the following with new:
-all three micro switches in FNR (Cleaned contacts on FNR)
-Controller
-Solenoid (with resistor)
-The motor works and turns over when connected directly to battery pack.
-changed pot to MCOR4 with conversion kit.

The battery pack shows 50.5 volts measured at the pack, 49.5 volts across B+ to B- lug on controller. At this point, i am out of ideas and starting question the function of the new parts and the old parts. I have read through a ton of threads on here and would really appreciate some help.

[Ferdinand]

What controller did you put into the cart (0-5K, 5K-0)? Is the MCOR4 working properly und gives correct ohm value dependent on pedal position?

[movin-on]

Could be a throttle issue...Depending on your serial #, the conversion kit you put in may not be compatible with your cart..Read this from Dave at Revolution or give him a call..

https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/p...conversion-kit

[Fulmenjacio]

The controller is a 5k-0. I haven't checked ohm values yet with the MCOR, as I finished the install last night. I feel like I've replaced everything that could be the issue and still no luck.

[Fulmenjacio]

Movin-on: I'll check out the link. Thank you. The kit I got was for a pre MCOR to MCOR4 conversion.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by Fulmenjacio

The battery pack shows 50.5 volts measured at the pack, 49.5 volts across B+ to B- lug on controller.

Aside from the controller/MCOR issue, are these new batteries that you installed? They are not at full charge according to the voltages you indicate. Put them on a long charge. If they are not new, make sure the electrolyte level is at least 1/4 to 1/2" above the plates.

[Ferdinand]

Well, as the motor is tested and the solenoid makes a click when pushing the pedal, I would assume thats its either a throttle/MCOR issue or something with the wiring or with the battery pack. I would start with checking the ohm value from the MCOR to the controller. If this works, I would check all wiring and whether the voltage on the battery package is dropping to much when pushing the pedal.

[Fulmenjacio]

Alright, thank you for everyone's help. I checked the wiring on the new controller which is an updated Curtis and found i had two if the low voltage wires swapped (KSI and low voltage +). So, now it runs great IN FORWARD ONLY....I cleaned the FNR contacts but that didn't take care of it. I revisited the Curtis manual which says I MUST have a wire from the A2 lug on the controller to A2 on the motor...so, wire attached, and still nothing in reverse. In forward I'm getting 18-19MPH...when in reverse, buzzer sounds, solenoid clicks, but no movement.

[Fulmenjacio]

Also, I've never been on a forum before and am posting from my phone. So, please forgive me if I'm not following etiquette or am not responding to specific posts, as I'm not well versed in this type of thing. Thank you for your help though.

[Fulmenjacio]

Originally Posted by Tom47

Aside from the controller/MCOR issue, are these new batteries that you installed? They are not at full charge according to the voltages you indicate. Put them on a long charge. If they are not new, make sure the electrolyte level is at least 1/4 to 1/2" above the plates.

Batteries are new, but have not been charged in two weeks while performing the trouble shooting. I charged them today and am showing 51.5 volts