Programming Curtis Controller

[woodygb]

The cables that I linked to should both be the same and use the CH340 ( the 340 number is embossed into the plug ) the first one will come from China the other is located in the Brandon, Florida, United States

Either should work without the need to alter any settings...but only with the earlier 4401 software.

You can just see the 340 embossed into the plug ...if it says 2303 then it uses a Prolific chip and I have never had success with this chip in this type of cheap BLUE cable.

EDIT:- Note that it can take about a minute to connect .... so as long as an error hasn't occurred be patient.

[woodygb]

I would however recommend the TTL-232R-3V3-WE

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165525302912

This lead WILL need programming as a "Genuine" Curtis 1309 ..and the registry altered ..but once done it will work on both the Early and Later versions of the Curtis Software.

[kgsc]

And if you go to page 120 in this thread there are some files that you can download to use to configure the cable.. Also on a few pages before you will find the registry settings.

[sailorkane]

Originally Posted by woodygb

I would however recommend the TTL-232R-3V3-WE

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165525302912

This lead WILL need programming as a "Genuine" Curtis 1309 ..and the registry altered ..but once done it will work on both the Early and Later versions of the Curtis Software.

Thanks buys. I'll try the ebay 340 chip usb-serial adapter first. I've ordered it. I'm using a shotgun approach here.... Then I may try to use the TTL version, but I may need more help on what to do. I'll try reading from page 120. This thread is so long and so hard to figure out what actually works. I've tried to find someone who can help me locally with a 1313 programmer, but either no response or they can't do it. I'm near Tampa, Florida if anyone has suggestions for nearby help.... This shotgun approach can get expensive at $10 each. Might actually be cheaper and better to just buy one configured the way I want it....

[kabota]

Originally Posted by jimbobelectronics

Hey guys! YOU GUYS ROCK!!! Lol. Thanks to everyone on their contributions. Once a guy can actually get through all 1649 posts prior to his... Its quite easy to get to factory level and make some changes. Which have been super fun!!

So I have 2 questions:

No.1 Can someone send me Developer level Registry? Please

No.2 Does anyone have any info on these Curtis 1515-5201 controllers? I can't seem to find any. From what I can tell they are VERY similar to another controller but the parameters layout is different and the definitions are different. ANY help would be great!

Thanks

any luck with your 1515-5201 controller
did you get into developer mode with version 4 software/

[kabota]

Has anyone programmed speed code 4 with the curtis software version 3 or 4
into a 2008 precedent controler I have version 3 OEM can put in the factory codes a b and c but it never goes into speed code 4 after the run / tow toggle
any ideas ?

[sailorkane]

Well thanks to everyone for the replies. However, the 340 chipset adapter didn't work. Got an error code when trying to access the controller. Just about given up on making the programming software work. If its serial, but at TTL levels, I may be pushing on a rope. Technically a serial port should recognize serial at 0-5V levels, but Curtis may have made this difficult just to enhance the value of their programmers. I had a fallback where a local golfcart shop has a 1313 programmer and willing to help me change the throttle type. Also reached out to a large Tampa fork truck company--still waiting on followup.

However, good news. All I really needed to change was the throttle type. I have been having a throttle fault consistently when I applied power to the controller. The default throttle for a 1215 controller is type "2". (type "3" is the 0-5K ohm standard pb-6 that I own). One of the type "2" throttles that is OK, per the curtis manual, is a 3-wire pot, where the wiper forms a voltage bridge. (other allowed type 2's are 0-5Vm 0-10V, curtis electronic, etc). The inside of the PB-6 has the third position on the pot. AND a couple of wires from the micro limit switch. If I swap the black wire from the switch to the 3rd pot position in the PB-6, I shazam have a 3-wire pot. And it looks pretty good, since all 3 wires run through the attached connector. I can run a parallel set of two wires from the switch to the control circuit if I want to retain that safety function (optional). So, I no longer need to program my controller!!!! I bypassed the problem entirely. Far out. Just have a bunch of usb-serial adapters that I don't need.
I'm 95% sure the default throttle type in my controller is type 2. The documentation I found states that, and when I put my new type 2 3-wire pot to the controller, the fault goes away and all I get from the led is a periodic pulse check

[sailorkane]

Originally Posted by yad1

My rs232 cable does not work with the new version. I ordered a new fdti cable.
Hope this works and I will switch the "throttle mode" to "3"

Hey, if throttle type is your only problem, I may have another solution. In my case, there were several parameters I'd like to modify, but only one--throttle type--that is keeping me from putting the cart together. I have a PB-6 0-5K ohm throttle that is type "3" and my controller defaults to type "2" throttle. I just modified my PF-6 to be a type "2" throttle. And it appears to work--at least the error code has disappeared. I'll keep you posted as I move forward in testing.

[jsmith811]

Originally Posted by BobBoyce

Yes, but you'll want to choose a sub-model with a VCL that is compatible with your hardware.

How can I reach bob Bryce ?

I need a 2015 EZGo rXV done.

Originally Posted by sailorkane

Hey, if throttle type is your only problem, I may have another solution. In my case, there were several parameters I'd like to modify, but only one--throttle type--that is keeping me from putting the cart together. I have a PB-6 0-5K ohm throttle that is type "3" and my controller defaults to type "2" throttle. I just modified my PF-6 to be a type "2" throttle. And it appears to work--at least the error code has disappeared. I'll keep you posted as I move forward in testing.

I have it set to "5", you can't do anything about it, you have to set it to "3"
I am waiting for the cable, it will be next week