Difference in compression numbers, what does it mean

[Cartmaster]

I have used a bolt and short 3/8 socket set extension in the past. I now own at least three proper pullers. Mainly to lend out lol.

Welcome to the club Tom

[CP241]

Tom you’ve always been a member. Just too stubborn to admit it

IF you decide to DIY and make your own tool, make sure to use a hardened steel “shaft” to do the actual pushing. A really long grade 8 or 10.9 bolt works great if you cut off the head. I forget the diameter you need, sure you can search that or one of the other nincompoops probably know it by heart.

If you use mild steel as the push rod, it can easily mushroom inside the threaded end of the crankshaft and then you’re really in trouble. Then not only do you still have a stuck on clutch but now you’ve got a rod inside the center of the clutch that’s mushroomed and jammed inside the end of the crankshaft. I bought a cart once the guy tried to DIY the puller and used mold steel… even after cutting off the clutch with a whizzy wheel (clutch was junk anyway) it was galled up inside the end of the crankshaft so bad there was no saving the crankshaft. Fortunately I didn’t plan or need to (it was a 3pg and the rod bearings were trashed) I was just trying to separate the steel from aluminium for recycling purposes.

[Corey_W]

Bought the right tool came off in a few secs. Finished tearing the engine apart and I think I found the issue ring broken and cylinder bent. I’m guessing it’s safe to assume I need to replace that cylinder, do I need to do them both.

While I got it apart is there anything I should do/replace. Take it to a shop to allow them to clean it. I’ve never broken down an engine some relying upon advice.

[Corey_W]

Well the crankshaft and cylinder are messed up too.

[CP241]

I’ve got to admit, I’ve seen broken rings but nothing quite like that. That’s an interesting failure.

Use some Emory cloth, you might be surprised how easily the crankshaft cleans up. That’s a hardened steel crankshaft vs an aluminum rod. Generally will look much worse than it really is.

The cylinder can be saved. I use a 3 stone hone, but run a home through it for 15-20 seconds and see how it looks. The cylinder might actually be okay, general rule of thumb if you can feel it with a fingernail it will probably need to be bored out. If not then clean it up with a hone and you should be fine. Worst case, have a machine shop overbore it, get the next size up piston, and rings and put it all back together. But run a home through it, a lot of that may just be superficial and clean up easily with a hone. Won’t know until you try :)

I’d definitely replace the connecting rods as well. The crankshaft end of that connecting rod is probably not salvageable.

[trig123]

If this is your first engine I might look at just buying a rebuilt one. Not sure where in the USA you are located but Motors and More might be a good option. The are in appling ga. Give them a call tomorrow. Good price with warranty.

[Corey_W]

I don’t think the cylinder can be saved. The grooves can be felt pretty easily with you finger.

But say the crankshaft can be smoothed out. If I get the next size up pistons, is it 350 ones, will the rods for those fit on the cranks shaft? Do I need a different top end of the engine also?

[Corey_W]

Trig— it is my first engine to mess with. By I dont know about the cart. I feel like not because when I was taking the engine out it was missing a bolt for the skid plate and missing a bolt for the engine mount.

[Corey_W]

Oh I’m in Hutto, TX

[trig123]

The bolts missing wouldn't be a problem.
Give Motors and More call in the morning and see what they tell you.
In your case it would probably be your best bet. Not sure about shipping to your area but you won't know until you talk to them.