forward, no revesre or vice versa

[freedomchopper]

looking at the motor pic I posted, start at the top, A1, red wire goes to A1 swivel terminal, S2 goes to first battery -, A2 goes to driverside solinoid, and S1 to the main terminal on the F&R switch as you have pictured, the #5 goes to the passenger side solinoid.
On the bottom of the F&R , drivers side , 36v battery + , charger port and yellow into controll box, passenger side , marked half throttle goes to 24v + battery, because I`m running 3 12v deep cycle boat batteries instead of 6 6volt. I want to Thank you for trying to help me, It`s making me crazy, I know it`s something dumb but I just can`t see it

[Sergio]

After I looked at the picture of your motor , I can understand why You were asking about the internal wiring.

As I mentioned, the issue you are having is what happens when the Armature and the Stator wires are cross wired.

I am guessing that whoever did that hack job on the motor obviously had no clue what was going on and likely moved wires around.

If You carefully disconnect the wires on the motor so there is no other current path but the motor itself:

You should have continuity between A1 and A2 terminals at the motor.
You should have continuity between the S1 and S2 terminals at the motor.

That way you can at least make sure which pair of wires is A1 and A2 and which pair is S1 and S2.

In a series motor it really makes no difference which is the Armature and which is the field as long as You keep the coil terminals as pairs.

Just do that and re-label the motor terminals.

And don't drive too far from home as it is just a matter of time before you have a coil meltdown due to heat created by poor electrical contacts.

[Drewfus]

Nothing to do with direction problems, but what kind of cable is that? It looks like low strand count powerline cable to me.. Like the kind used to wire incoming service to your house.
Welding type cable should be used. High strand count copper. The taped off connectors shown kind of scare me too. Take a look under the tape and make sure you have at least a good crimp if not solder as well.

[freedomchopper]

Thank you, thats what I needed, I just wanted to be sure the rest of the wireing was correct before I looked at the motor. When I got the cart the F&R switch was wired wrong because it would go forward with the lever in reverse. I will do the continuity test as explained. Everyone I ask said if it runs 1 way it has to run the other, which had me very confused. I guess the picture of the hacked up wire job on the motor was worth 1000 words.

[freedomchopper]

Woo Hoo, that was it. Continuity was S1 to A1 and S2 to A2. I put - batt on A1 and pass side swivel terminal, marked A1 in Sergio`s pic , to S2. Now it works as it should. I want to fix this confussion by removing the end cap, moving the wires to the correct location. I`ve found youtube video`s about brush replacement an it doesn`t look to bad, I`ve put brushes in a car starter before so I should be able to handle it. I also what to replace the bolt coming out of the motor on A2 before I measure for new cables, what would I call the bolt to find a replacement.

[freedomchopper]

ok wiring is all straight, run foward and reverse, but soon as I start up an incline it dies quickly, felt wires and connection and nothing was hot, even the coils were not hot.

[scottyb]

See post #1. The 3 12v starting batteries can't begin to supply the motor needs under load