36v EZGO Electric PDS F/R issues

[boonesbuggies]

Success , well kind of. I want to thank you two for all your help on my never ending questions. Today I ran a hot wire to the reed switch something I have done a couple times already and I finally got full pack volts to J1 pin 4.The solenoid clicked and she moved. This leads me think the new controller I bought was no good because I tried it with the reed switch wired like that and got nothing. I still only have reverse but I feel confident I can figure that now that I could draw the whole wiring diagram from memory. Here is what I hope is my last question on this subject. The whole reason I changed batteries to start with is because when I bought this cart a couple weeks ago it was really weak like not pull a small hill weak. I installed 6 new Trojans and I still havd the very weak cart. There is a noise in the rear end that sounds to me like bad brushes in the motor. So my question is I have 1994 Medalist with a good 36v motor will it work on a pds. I understand its S1 S2 vs F1 F2 etc but it looks identical. And if said motor is bad could that possably have anything to do with only having reverse?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by boonesbuggies

1. There is a noise in the rear end that sounds to me like bad brushes in the motor.

2. So my question is I have 1994 Medalist with a good 36v motor will it work on a pds. I understand its S1 S2 vs F1 F2 etc but it looks identical.

3. And if said motor is bad could that possably have anything to do with only having reverse?

1. See answer 3 below.

2. No, the motor for a 94 Medalist won't work. A 1994 Medalist would have a Series drive and a PDS is a SepEx drive, so the motors are not interchangeable.

3. No, or at least highly unlikely. The difference between forward and reverse is the direction the motor spins, which is determined by which way the current in the field winding flow.

I'm not sure if brushes can be bad enough that the motor would spin in one direction and not the other, but without further testing, I can't rule out that slight possibility.

The motor runs in reverse, so swap the F1 & F2 leads at the controller and it should run forward.

[boonesbuggies]

I have the leads switched now I've testing it in forward. I still get nothing if the f/r is in forward.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by boonesbuggies

I have the leads switched now I've testing it in forward. I still get nothing if the f/r is in forward.

Okay, with the F/R in R, you can get the motor to run in both directions by swapping the F1 & F2 wires, so the motor isn't the problem.

That narrows it down to the F/R switch, or the controller, or the wiring harness.


With all plugs plugged in, Negative test lead connected to B- terminal on controller and Positive test probe inserted into backside of molex connector:

1. What are the voltages on J1 Pins 1, 2 & 3 when F/R is in R?

2. What are the voltages on J1 Pins 1, 2 & 3 when F/R is in F?

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I have a doctor's appointment, so I'll be gone for rest of day probably

[boonesbuggies]

Sorry it's been a while since an update but I've been waiting on parts and working on other carts. I pulled the motor everything looked brand new. I now have another new controller mine was replaced under warranty. As you asked here's my voltage on J1
In R 1=18.9 2=18.9 3=18.5
F 1=0 2=19 3=19

So I'm still at square one with another new controller

[scottyb]

Can you do a continuity test of the F&R rocker switch with all the wires removed?

[boonesbuggies]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Can you do a continuity test of the F&R rocker switch with all the wires removed?

Both switches I have show good continuity

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by boonesbuggies

Sorry it's been a while since an update but I've been waiting on parts and working on other carts. I pulled the motor everything looked brand new. I now have another new controller mine was replaced under warranty. As you asked here's my voltage on J1
In R 1=18.9 2=18.9 3=18.5
F 1=0 2=19 3=19

So I'm still at square one with another new controller

Two red flags.
1. Voltage is low. Ought to be battery pack voltage.
2. Voltage not on correct pins in F or R.

What you ought to have:

With Forward selected:
Pin-1 = ~38V
Pin-2 = 0V
Pin-3 = ~38V

With Reverse selected:
Pin-1 = ~38V
Pin-2 = ~38V
Pin-3 = 0V

J1 Pin-1 is the source voltage from the controller for the F/R switch, so it should have battery pack voltage on it whether the rocker switch is in either F, or in R, or in Neutral.

[boonesbuggies]

Got the pack up to 40v and I'm getting that at the plug although the switch is irealvent I have reverse with or with out it. The solenoid only clicks once in reverse and never for forward