1996 Club Car won't move

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by belleaut

I have an electrician who lives across the street. I am sure he can help me get true readings. The next question I have is about the controller. Does it mean it it is working because I can hear it? Thanks again.

More than likely yes.


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[joesam]

If those readings do confirm there is no resistance change - that particular (old design) potentiometer can be opened up and examined - you may find a mechanical cause of it failing to rotate the pot. If it is faulty, you'll have to pull it to replace it anyway.

[belleaut]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

If the controller isn't changing pitch when you apply throttle, the potentiometer probably isn't changing resistance either.... There should be a small round black connector just in front of the two batteries on the driver's side under the seat. Unplug that connector and do a resistance test between the yellow wire and the white/black wire coming out of the potentiometer. You should see 5k-0 ohms from pedal up to pedal down. Put your meter on 20k OHMS setting to do this test. If the potentiometer is out of range, replace it with an AM293201 MCOR4 conversion kit.

Hey Tahoe,
Your insight and suggestions have helped out a lot. I took apart the potentiometer and did not see any physical damage. I would then have to say it is the small round electronic part that is the main part of the potentiometer. My last comment/question is around replacing it. The conversion kit is well over $200 and comes with many different parts. Is there any other option when it comes to parts/ or replacement parts.

Thanks again.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by belleaut

Hey Tahoe,
Your insight and suggestions have helped out a lot. I took apart the potentiometer and did not see any physical damage. I would then have to say it is the small round electronic part that is the main part of the potentiometer. My last comment/question is around replacing it. The conversion kit is well over $200 and comes with many different parts. Is there any other option when it comes to parts/ or replacement parts.

Thanks again.

That's really the only option. Club Car doesn't offer replacement parts for the PotBox anymore. This is their solution.

[belleaut]

I purchased and installed the new part. ($260 potentiometer) No change.
Same sound and wheels won't turn.

What next?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Did you check the throttle frequency going into the controller that I described in the above post? If you can be sure that the correct throttle reading is getting to the controller you can rule this out. It may just be a bad connection somewhere. If you're getting the correct reading we'll move elsewhere.

[belleaut]

I have not had much time in the past 2-3 weeks to work on this. I have not checked the reading on the replacement POT box because I assume it should be good because it is brand new. I will do the test in the next few days. Tonight I tested the motor. I wanted to rule that out. I tied the post together and used 24 volts to spin the motor. It works.

If the pot box is good, what should I look at next?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

I'm not saying the potentiometer is bad. I'm saying that the signal may not be making it back to the controller. That's why I want a reading at the controller.

[belleaut]

I have completed the test that did the following. Unplug that connector and do a resistance test between the yellow wire and the white/black wire coming out of the potentiometer. You should see 5k-0 ohms from pedal up to pedal down.

It did show a drop in resistance as the pedal went down. In your last post you instructed me to check it at the controller. I am sorry because I did not see how or when you asked me to do that. I only tested the three wire plug in front of the batteries under the seat.
How do I test the signal at the controller?
Thanks

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by belleaut

I have completed the test that did the following. Unplug that connector and do a resistance test between the yellow wire and the white/black wire coming out of the potentiometer. You should see 5k-0 ohms from pedal up to pedal down.

It did show a drop in resistance as the pedal went down. In your last post you instructed me to check it at the controller. I am sorry because I did not see how or when you asked me to do that. I only tested the three wire plug in front of the batteries under the seat.
How do I test the signal at the controller?
Thanks

You're right. I thought I had asked for that information. I do not have a Regen 1 diagram handy at the moment. Maybe Sergio can chime in. It's going to be the white and yellow wires from the potentiometer. You'll be able to get to the end of them by unplugging the connector from the controller. I can't recall what color they are by the time they get to the controller. They may be the same. Sorry, but I don't see a lot of Regen 1 cars.