Working on a 2001 Series Cart

[txhellraiser]

Working on a 2001 Series Cart.

Just got our motor back from an upgrade. Had the controller upgraded to 400 amp, HD Solenoid and HD switch during the downtime also. Cart has been down for about a month during this process. Everything worked prior to upgrading/sending motor out.

Here's the dilemma now. I had help putting it all back together and some how A2 & S2 got crossed on motor during install. Cart does not move now. Can hear Solenoid click when throttle is pressed.

Did crossing the wires burn something up? Any troubleshooting ideas from here?

Pack voltage is 38v. Have 38v on both sides of the solenoid and shifter switch when throttle is NOT pressed. Don't know if this is correct or not.

[JohnnieB]

Might have taken out the motor, or the controller, or the F/R switch contacts.

Normally, the controller output is connected to the armature windings and stator windings and F/R switch contacts in series. When A2 and S2 were swapped, the stator windings are bypassed and the controller's output is connected the the armature only the one set of F/R contacts. The resistance was more or less halved, so the amp flow was more or less doubled. (See attached schematic with high amp circuit highlighted.)

Measure between A1 and A2 with an Ohmmeter. Should be very low Ohms.

If so, try running motor from 2 or 3 of the batteries (12V to 18V), per attached drawing.

[txhellraiser]

Hooked up motor, as described in schematic, with a 12 volt battery. Motor makes the cart move. Checked continuity on micro switches. They're good. Guessing it took out the controller.

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[txhellraiser]

Going to bring this back up. Got the controller back and cart still doesnt move. Solenoid clicks when throttle is pressed. Maybe i have something wired wrong on solenoid. Anyone have a schematic of solenoid wiring?

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[txhellraiser]

Attached is a pic of my current solenoid wiring. Also included is the voltage. Is there suppose to be voltage on both sides of the solenoid with the throttle not being pressed?

[JohnnieB]

The 250Ω resistor connected between the two large terminals keeps the filter capacitors inside the controller charged and there is a bleeder network on those capacitors for safety reasons, so there is a continuous amp flow through the resistor causing a voltage drop. Looks like it is only 0.7V, which is a little less than usual.

If the solenoid clicks when the pedal is pushed, the problem is in the high amp circuit (thick cables). The schematic I attached to my post#2 has the high amp circuit highlighted.

[txhellraiser]

Ok. Guess thats what im chasing down then. Is there a simple schematic anywhere of what cables go to which lug on the hd switch?

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[JohnnieB]

F/R switch studs are labeled on the schematic. A is at bottom, C at top, B at 9 o'clock, D at 3 o'clock.

[txhellraiser]

After going back and re-verifying wiring, could it be the lugs on the hd switch itself? I have no voltage to any lugs, other than 6 o'clock lug. The other 3 are pretty much dead (<1 volt).

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[txhellraiser]

Ok. Guess the nut that goes through the f/r switch was loose. Tightened it up and now i have reverse but no forward. Microswitch is working (continuity when closed and vice versa). Any other ideas?

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