1991 EZGo Marathon Electric Just Quit

[Paxdad]

Just to clarify when I am saying check the wires it is not for continuity it is for voltage flow. You can have continuity with a bad wire but can still not carry sufficient flow for the wire to do what it needs to do minimize resistance. Good luck.

[Danali]

I thought about, once again, just detailing how the cart acted when it finally quit. It sounds like something actually failed.

I was in forward and all was running fine, no hiccups etc. Without warning it just died. In fooling around with getting it to go, I put it in reverse and it backup up normally. I stopped put it in forward and off I went for hours. This repeated around 6 to 10 times. It would quit, I put it in reverse, it would run, put it back in forward and off it would go again. Finally, it quit in forward, and had no response in reverse either. It hasn't run since then.

[Paxdad]

Based on your description, which is very beneficial for troubleshooting, did you check to see the condition of the F/R switch contacts?

[Danali]

Originally Posted by Paxdad

Based on your description, which is very beneficial for troubleshooting, did you check to see the condition of the F/R switch contacts?

Yes I did. To be really sure, I pulled them out of the cart and operated the switch a couple dozen times with the ohm meter. I did this with all switches, pot box, and solenoid and all operated correctly.

[Danali]

I have found procedures and voltages for an "in cart test" and "bench test" for the Curtis Controller Box. Anyone interested can go to this website and click on the controller needed then select "Manual" or "Data Sheet" which is right below the image. It gives a complete description of the controller box, voltage tests etc.

http://curtisinst.com/index.cfm?fuse...ListDS&CatID=1

[Danali]

The curtis site I mentioned above has a complete troubleshooting guide for the controller in my cart. It says I should read a full 36 volts at B+ (Checking between B+ and the battery side of solenoid post). That checked out. Next I was to test from B+ to B- on the controller and was supposed to get around 31 to 35 volts at that point (1 to 5 volts less than full voltage). If not the controller (or resistor) is bad. I was told I didn't need the resistor on my cart by several dealers. Anyway the voltage is not coming through the control box and it is supposed to. I was supposed to get 31 to 35 volts, and I got zero volts. The Curtis site says controller is bad. I am tempted to go with the rebuilt one at

http://www.cartpartsplus.com/

It is $200 less than a new one and has a year guarantee. It looks like it comes out of Donaldson Ga and I could probably have it by Mon or Tues. Any comments or suggestions is certainly welcome.

[pggroves]

I personally like the Alltrax brand and I'm sure they are available from CPP as well.

[Danali]

Originally Posted by pggroves

I personally like the Alltrax brand and I'm sure they are available from CPP as well.

Thanks for the recc. I will certainly look it up. All I have had to replace in 7 years are tires and batteries. This is a first with something like the speed controller, and although I am relieved to know that I have narrowed it down to that part, and it really is bad, it does turn out to be a pricey little part.

[pggroves]

You have to pay for "brains" and not just in carts.

[Bmw2074]

I have a 1991.5 ezgo marathon and my cart is wired the exact same way as yours. I too am also having trouble with my cart running. It seems like it will run for hours, days, or weeks without a problem, and then all of the sudden my cart will stop working. I am currently working with Scotty b in a different thread to try and trouble shoot my cart as well. if the control biox fixes your problem, let me know so that I can try it out on my cart as well. My posting is under the electric ezgo section and its titled "Ezgo wont run".