95 ez-go Medalist wont go

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by okie-dude

Went threw the "DCS TroubleShooting Sequence"

Tested good steps 1-4

step 5 - Pin 7 - with key switch on, accelerator pedal up and F or R selected, - REF. Battery voltage.... I get battery voltage regardless if the pedal is "up" or depressed.

Step 6 - Pin 6 14-15VDC - If not replace controller.... Tested 0.00volts. So i guess, bad controller?

Step 7 - Pin 1 - .4-1.5V - If not replace ITS..... Also 0.00v, but maybe it would read 0 with a bad controller?



They pushed it back to there house after it died... I see in another post, that can fry the controller pretty fast if its not in the "tow" mode?

I hate to throw a $500 part at it and it not fix it, but the book seems to think its the controller and possible the ITS.


Where's a good place to get ez-go parts for a good price?

Don't put another stock control on it !
This is a system with a built in failure, it's in the control. It has no low voltage protection. During a low voltage incidence the motor will draw an excessive amount of amperage which results in excess heat that kills the control. Go with pkg #505, a 400a Alltrax DCX control and HD solenoid for less than $500. The result will be 35% increase in torque and flat ground speed of 20 mph. The owner will be grinning ear to ear. Good luck with it.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by okie-dude

1. I have 37.18 volts to the wht/yel wire from the key switch to the small 3-wire post.

2. I have no power coming from the other two wires that come from the esc to the 3 wire small post.

3. The resistor is there it looks different then the service manual, it hangs down low and is on a little circuit board.

Originally Posted by okie-dude

Went threw the "DCS TroubleShooting Sequence"

Tested good steps 1-4

4. step 5 - Pin 7 - with key switch on, accelerator pedal up and F or R selected, - REF. Battery voltage.... I get battery voltage regardless if the pedal is "up" or depressed.

5. Step 6 - Pin 6 14-15VDC - If not replace controller.... Tested 0.00volts. So i guess, bad controller?

6. Step 7 - Pin 1 - .4-1.5V - If not replace ITS..... Also 0.00v, but maybe it would read 0 with a bad controller?



7. They pushed it back to there house after it died... I see in another post, that can fry the controller pretty fast if its not in the "tow" mode?

I hate to throw a $500 part at it and it not fix it, but the book seems to think its the controller and possible the ITS.


8. Where's a good place to get ez-go parts for a good price?

1. If you have two wires going to the controller from the small post on the solenoid that has three wires on it, you cart is wired wrong.
1 wire comes from the keyswitch, 1 wire goes to the pedal switch and 1 wire goes to Pin-6 on the controller.

2. The wire coming from the keyswitch is the voltage source for the other two wires.

3. Take the PD board off for the time being. It is not needed to troubleshoot or run the cart. It simply prolongs the solenoid's contacts lifespan a bit over time.

4. If you have pack voltage on Pin-7, it is coming through the solenoid coil, so voltage must be getting to the small post on the solenoid with three wires on it, so so something is amiss with the voltage readings on the other two wires since they are all three tied together electrically on that post.

5. If you are not getting pack voltage on Pin-4, the controller is not powered up, so you won't get any voltage.

6. The previous step failed, and checking beyond a failed step is typically counterproductive.

7. Pushing or towing the cart in Run mode can take out both the motor and the controller.

8. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/site-sponsors.php

If the controller turns out to be bad (as proved by troubleshooting). don't replace it with a stock DCS controller. Use an Alltrax DCX400 or larger and you will have a cart with more speed and more torque as well as more reliability.

[okie-dude]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Don't put another stock control on it !
This is a system with a built in failure, it's in the control. It has no low voltage protection. During a low voltage incidence the motor will draw an excessive amount of amperage which results in excess heat that kills the control. Go with pkg #505, a 400a Alltrax DCX control and HD solenoid for less than $500. The result will be 35% increase in torque and flat ground speed of 20 mph. The owner will be grinning ear to ear. Good luck with it.

Thanks for the heads up! I assume this system will work with the stock motor? if this motor is still good.

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

1. If you have two wires going to the controller from the small post on the solenoid that has three wires on it, you cart is wired wrong.
1 wire comes from the keyswitch, 1 wire goes to the pedal switch and 1 wire goes to Pin-6 on the controller.


2. The wire coming from the keyswitch is the voltage source for the other two wires.


3. Take the PD board off for the time being. It is not needed to troubleshoot or run the cart. It simply prolongs the solenoid's contacts lifespan a bit over time.

4. If you have pack voltage on Pin-7, it is coming through the solenoid coil, so voltage must be getting to the small post on the solenoid with three wires on it, so so something is amiss with the voltage readings on the other two wires since they are all three tied together electrically on that post.


5. If you are not getting pack voltage on Pin-4, the controller is not powered up, so you won't get any voltage.

6. The previous step failed, and checking beyond a failed step is typically counterproductive.

7. Pushing or towing the cart in Run mode can take out both the motor and the controller.

8. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/site-sponsors.php

If the controller turns out to be bad (as proved by troubleshooting). don't replace it with a stock DCS controller. Use an Alltrax DCX400 or larger and you will have a cart with more speed and more torque as well as more reliability.

1 - It is wired as you say. What i meant is the green wire that comes from the esc to the pedal box, then from to the pedal box (red wire) to the small post of the solenoid. Doesn't have power coming from the green wire.

2 - I thought you meant that all 3 wires should have power? So i discounted them and checked them individually. I do have battery voltage from the key switch wire. So i do have power from the other 2-wires if the key switch wire is installed with other two wires.

3 - ok

4 - see "2"


So, in your opinion would you say the controller sounds bad?

I guess ill need to test the motor to insure i wont damage the new esc with this possible damaged motor? Is there a good way to test the motor?

[scottyb]

Sepex motor test ......

[okie-dude]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Sepex motor test ......

Thanks!

So i guess if the motor spins I'm good to go? I guess they either work or don't work?

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by okie-dude

Thanks!

So i guess if the motor spins I'm good to go? I guess they either work or don't work?

They do have brushes and bearings which need replacing occasionally

[okie-dude]

looks like motors good. Looks like ill just need to get a new controller.

[okie-dude]

Update.. Got the new controller installed from carts unlimited a while back and that fixed it. Runs good and customer is happy. Thanks for the help guys.

[JohnnieB]

Glad to hear you got it going.
Thanks for the feedback.