LED Wiring, Inverter needed?

[ncorry]

WOrking on a buddy's 2006 Bad Boy. Planning on wiring in 2 12watt LED cubes. Have been told that a 24watt total load will not pull enough to warrant installing an inverter. What is the threshold for needing to install an inverter? These might not be the only LEDs that end up getting wired in, and want to do it right the first time.

[JohnnieB]

There really isn't a threshold. Drawing any amount more current out of some batteries more than the others will imbalance the pack and eventually lead to battery issues. If the current draw is low, it just takes longer.

Moving the 12V tap around in the pack helps, so does giving the batteries tapped for 12V a boost charge with a 12V charger when they deviate more than 0.1V from the rest of the pack, but it is best to use a separate 12V battery for accessories, or a DC to DC converter so the drain is equal on all the batteries in the pack.

[sunking]

Use either a DC to DC converter, or add a 12 volt battery for gizmos.

[branson]

I guess he means a DC reducer not an inverter

[DIRTPIT HC]

Does an 06 BBB have 12 accessories already? Seems like it should have a reducer on it already.

[ncorry]

Reducer, not inverter, yes, you're right, and I'm a jackass newbie.

No REDUCER on the 06 BBB- factory winch and headlights are wired to a series of two 6 volt batteries. All batteries test well, but we're wiring up a 120W white led bar, a pair of 24w red led cubes and a single 27w 940nm infrared led spot, all for quietly stalking invasive swine at midnight. On the LEDs, only one spectrum will be on at a time due to the night vision goggles being worth a hell of a lot more than the buggy. Know there's a learning curve on forums, and now I know there's a difference between an inverter and a reducer.

[DIRTPIT HC]

The pigs are addicting. Almost as much as carts.

The reducer would help with your battery pack. When accessories are wired to just two batteries it draws them down quicker that the rest of the pack. ScottyB (carts unlimited)has a nice 30A reducer. Just make sure your below 30A with your accessories.

I don't know how much ridding y'all do or how long you have your lights on but a separate deep cycle 12v battery just for the lights may be better for you. You could wire all light to the 12v battery and just have clips at the battery. Then if your not pig hunting for a while you could remove the battery. This way if your lights draw your battery down, you still have power to get back to camp.

[ncorry]

Originally Posted by DIRTPIT HC

The pigs are addicting. Almost as much as carts.

The reducer would help with your battery pack. When accessories are wired to just two batteries it draws them down quicker that the rest of the pack. ScottyB (carts unlimited)has a nice 30A reducer. Just make sure your below 30A with your accessories.

I don't know how much ridding y'all do or how long you have your lights on but a separate deep cycle 12v battery just for the lights may be better for you. You could wire all light to the 12v battery and just have clips at the battery. Then if your not pig hunting for a while you could remove the battery. This way if your lights draw your battery down, you still have power to get back to camp.

Going to try the reducer- jsut ordered one from ScottyB's. ****, my buddy's BBB is sure costing me some $. $70 for red LEDs, $100 for reducer, relays, wiring, etc, another $100, $100 IR LED light, etc.... We don't spend too much time driving around looking for pigs on most of the spots, and when driving, we'll be using the 24 watt red leds for the most part. You are right though, the piggies are addicting. Pretty much given up duck, really cut back on deer. In Arkansas, you can hunt piggies 24/7/365. NV scopes, thermals and suppressors are all expensive, but man oh man, when you get into them at night with NV goggles and invisible infrared lasers, well, it takes my adrenal gland a week to recover. It's the most fun that I know of that is legal and won't get me divorced!!