98 club car ds 50v on both sides of the solenoid at all times?

[Brownstown]

I have a 48volt 1998 club car ds that was running just fine then it just stopped a few day ago. I needed new batteries so I went ahead and replaced those. It wouldn't go the solenoid just clicked so I got to trouble shooting a little, notice that the tab for the orange wire in the F/R switch was broken off so I replaced the F/R still nothing and now the solenoid doesn't click anymore. Checked it with my multimeter and I have 50volt on both large posts any the time, so I put a new solenoid in and I'm getting the exact same result. So can anyone offer me any advice?

[Fairtax4me]

There’s a resistor across the large posts of the solenoid which allows current to the controller so the capacitors in the controller can charge. The resistor is passing voltage to the other side, so it’s 100% normal to have pack voltage on both large posts of the solenoid when it’s off.

What voltage is present on the small terminals? It was clicking before, so that would usually indicate it’s at least getting some voltage but it may not be enough.

Is your FnR switch the big lever?

Or is it a small rocker switch? And does it have a Tow/run switch under the seat?
If it’s a small rocker switch this would be a Regen2 cart with two solenoids originally, one on each side of the controller. The one on the left side (driver side) would have a big toaster coil on the large posts. Do you still have two solenoids? If so they both need to work for the cart to move.
It is common for these carts to be upgraded and the second solenoid with the toaster coil removed.
If only one solenoid, then what controller is currently in the cart? It will either have an aluminum case, or it will have a plastic case. If it’s plastic what color is it?

[Brownstown]

Mines has the big F/R lever, one solenoid, and the aluminum controller. The solenoid isn't clicking at all anymore, the voltage across the small terminals is 0

[Fairtax4me]

On the series carts, the solenoid only gets voltage when Key On, FnR is in F or R, and the throttle switch is pressed.
Power for the key switch comes from the green wire that connects to the B+ side on the solenoid large post.

Kinda hard to see wire colors in this diagram, but it may help you trace which wire does what, and make sure all wires are where they're supposed to be.

[CP241]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

On the series carts, the solenoid only gets voltage when Key On, FnR is in F or R, and the throttle switch is pressed.
Power for the key switch comes from the green wire that connects to the B+ side on the solenoid large post.

Kinda hard to see wire colors in this diagram, but it may help you trace which wire does what, and make sure all wires are where they're supposed to be.

One thing that may help, print out the diagram and trace the wires with crayons. It is easy to mix them up along the length of the run

[Brownstown]

Okay so I finally had the time to check the voltage across the two small posts on the solenoid with the key on and the pedal pressed and get back online. Well I have 0 volts across the 2. So what should I test next or should I replace the solenoid? Oh and I traced every wire going to the solenoid and everything is as it should be.

[Volt_Ampere]

0 volts across the small terminals just means that nothing is energizing the solenoid. Check each side relative to battery negative. You should normally have battery voltage there. The controller activates the solenoid by grounding one of the small terminals.

[Brownstown]

Okay checked each small terminal with the battery last negative, key on, pedal pressed and still nothing.

[Volt_Ampere]

The diagram here is too small for me to read but on my Yamaha carts, you always have battery positive on one side of the solenoid (relative to battery negative) To energize the solenoid, the circuit has to connect the other small terminal to ground. If you don't have battery voltage on either side, you need to diagnose that. Maybe a fuse? My cart has a 3 amp fuse in that circuit going to the run/tow switch. (Yamaha though)

[Fairtax4me]

Series club cars are not that way. The solenoid gets Positive supplied by Key switch On, Throttle switch pressed, and FnR switch in F or R.

Most common place to have bad connections is at the FnR switch. Check the first micro-switch on the back of the FnR for corrosion/bad terminals. Check for voltage getting to the Green/white striped wire with Key On and throttle pressed. If you have pack voltage
there, check below.
If you do get voltage there, check the white/blk stripe wire with FnR in F or R. Or actuate the switch tab by hand and see if voltage gets to the white/blk strip wire. If no, replace the microswitch, or you can temporarily Bypass it by just jumping the green/wht and white/blk wires together for testing.

Remember throttle needs to be Pressed to get voltage here. Rear wheels off the ground can help keep the cart from running away if it suddenly decides to work.

If you get no voltage at the FnR microswitch, Disconnect the pack negative and Pull the dash panel out. Once the key switch is clear of the dash frame reconnect the pack negative. Check voltage at the Key switch, Green wire should be pack voltage. If no voltage to the key switch the green wire at the solenoid large posts needs to be checked for proper connection.

If pack voltage is present on the green wire, Turn the Key switch ON and should then have pack voltage on the Blue wire. If no, key switch is bad.
If Yes, move to the throttle switch in the Pie wedge box. Blue wire going into the 6 pin connector needs to have pack voltage with Key On. If yes press the throttle and check for pack voltage on the Green/wht stripe wire coming out. Use a paper clip or pin to probe the connector because this needs to be tested with the connector plugged in.
If no voltage, the throttle switch is bad, or there is a bad connection inside the pie wedge box and it needs to be opened up to repair/replace the switch.