What’s going on with my DS

[alparmer]

It keeps doing this intermittent headache that it won’t go fwd or rev ever so often when taking off. I can hear the solenoid click. If I keep pressing the pedal on and off it’ll eventually go. I replaced solenoid, rev switch, motor brushes, motor bearing and checked all connections. Only think left is the wiper and controller. Now, it’s nice it goes it’ll keep going and if you stop it may or may not go. I did take apart the wiper and cleaned the contacts but didn’t check the switch at the bottom. Sometimes when it wont go and then goes, it’s like it’s jerking the motor like it skips a lower speed and jumps into a higher. Wiper assembly?

[cueball94]

I had the same problem with my 2002 DS after I upgraded my cables to 4 AWG, but just a reverse problem. The fix for me was physically separating the high amp cables from the low amp cables.

[Fairtax4me]

Possible the resistors on the back of the throttle pot are damaged.
They are known to crack when they get old and cause goofy throttle issues.

Replacement resistors are dirt cheap. Some places sell kits online for well over $100 which is just a flat out rip when the 7 resistors together can cost you less than $5 if you know where to look.
You can order resistors in bulk on amazon. Or buy individually from Mouser, Digikey, or other electronic component suppliers.
Some links that may help
https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=152895

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=109371

[alparmer]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Possible the resistors on the back of the throttle pot are damaged.
They are known to crack when they get old and cause goofy throttle issues.

Replacement resistors are dirt cheap. Some places sell kits online for well over $100 which is just a flat out rip when the 7 resistors together can cost you less than $5 if you know where to look.
You can order resistors in bulk on amazon. Or buy individually from Mouser, Digikey, or other electronic component suppliers.
Some links that may help
https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=152895

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=109371

Thanks for the reply. Thats the first thing I thought but all measured correctly and cleaned up the wiper and contacts. No help so I bought a brand new one and the same. I've also tried two new solenoids, one like the oem one and then one of the nicer upgraded ones. When it goes, it pulls hard and fast, but something is causing it to stop intermittently. I've checked and rechecked all wires, etc. I grabbed a multimeter and went on a ride and when it didn't want to go, i had voltage and correct resistance on the low amp three connectors. B+ and B- good, but no output on M-. It has to be the controller shutting down for some reason. I ordered a curtis clone 1204M from amazon and didn't get a chance to take it out because the throttle programming in the controller was not on 5k-0. So sent it back and waiting on another that it is suposed to be programmed correctly. If not, I think I'll take the dive into an alltrax sr48300 or the 400amp version. Hate to spend the money on this old cart but it sucks to be stranded.

[Fairtax4me]

Before replacing the controller make sure all the cables on the FNR switch are clean and tight. And make sure the contacts in the FNR are clean and not melted or burned from overheating.
A bad connection at the FNR will cause a lot of issues but is usually apparent because the amperage through the switch will burn the contacts.
New switches are usually it or miss. They're pretty much all aftermarket these days and the cheapo ones don't hold up for long. I've done HD switch upgrades on a few carts and they seem to hold up much better than the standard replacement FNR switch. I would definitely go with an HD switch if you plan to put an Alltrax in it.

[alparmer]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Before replacing the controller make sure all the cables on the FNR switch are clean and tight. And make sure the contacts in the FNR are clean and not melted or burned from overheating.
A bad connection at the FNR will cause a lot of issues but is usually apparent because the amperage through the switch will burn the contacts.
New switches are usually it or miss. They're pretty much all aftermarket these days and the cheapo ones don't hold up for long. I've done HD switch upgrades on a few carts and they seem to hold up much better than the standard replacement FNR switch. I would definitely go with an HD switch if you plan to put an Alltrax in it.

I installed a new fnr switch also but like you said, it looks cheap compared to the original. Which HD switch did you install

[Fairtax4me]

https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/p...club-car-ds-48
They're still aftermarket, but beefy compared to any other switch I've seen. A little clunky at first, but they smooth out nicely after a few weeks of use.