It's All my Fault

Sorceress · 07-30-2013, 06:26 PM

Several weeks ago I had to use my 1997 TXT 36 Volt series cart to tow my lawn tractor that was disabled at the bottom of my hill. It was slow going but the cart was handling the load and I finally got it up the hill into my barn. By the time I reached the barn I could smell something burning. I just thought it was the motor stating to overheat from the load that it was subjected to. A few days later when I tried to use my cart no forward or backward motion. I did some preliminary voltage checks and found the following. My voltage coming off my battery pack is 38.3 volts. When I checked the voltage between my battery negative terminal and the controller side of my solenoid with the key off and my direction selector in neutral there should have been a 0.5 to 2.5 volts less than my 38.3 volts. According to the diagnostics guide if the reference voltage of 38.3 volts is the same voltage on the controller side of the solenoid they say to replace the solenoid because it could be welded. I took off the solenoid and did a continuity check across both terminals and if it was welded I should of had continuity. The problem is that when I checked it showed as an open circuit so I think the solenoid is okay.

JohnnieB · 07-31-2013, 06:39 AM

Welcome to BGW!

The 0.5 to 2.5V less than pack voltage is only true when the controller is drawing an "Idle " current and if you overheated the controller when you pulled the lawn tractor up the hill, it may no longer be drawing an idle current.

Leave the resistor (and diode) off when you reinstall the solenoid. They should be installed for use, but not needed while troubleshooting.

Without the resistor, the controller side voltage will be zero when the solenoid is de-energized and full pack voltage when it is energized.

Does the solenoid click when you push the pedal?
If it doesn't we need to troubleshot the solenoid activation circuit.
If it does, we need to troubleshoot the high current circuit.

What type drive, series or DCS?

Sorceress · 07-31-2013, 06:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Welcome to BGW!

The 0.5 to 2.5V less than pack voltage is only true when the controller is drawing an "Idle " current and if you overheated the controller when you pulled the lawn tractor up the hill, it may no longer be drawing an idle current.

Leave the resistor (and diode) off when you reinstall the solenoid. They should be installed for use, but not needed while troubleshooting.

Without the resistor, the controller side voltage will be zero when the solenoid is de-energized and full pack voltage when it is energized.

Does the solenoid click when you push the pedal?
If it doesn't we need to troubleshot the solenoid activation circuit.
If it does, we need to troubleshoot the high current circuit.

What type drive, series or DCS?

It is a series cart. This morning I disconnected the wire on the controller side of the solenoid leaving this post empty of any cable. I then checked the other side of the solenoid and got a reference voltage of 38.3 volts with my key off and my direction switch in neutral. I then checked to see if I got any voltage on the other empty post and I did show the same exact voltage of 38.3 volts. I now think I have a bad solenoid.

JohnnieB · 07-31-2013, 07:07 AM

If the resistor was also disconnected, it sure sounds like welded contacts in the solenoid.

However, welded solenoid contacts won't keep the cart from moving.

Sir Nuke · 07-31-2013, 07:47 AM

Sorceress, JohnnieB has you back on your issue......so Welcome to our happy little corner of the net, and to BGW. There is a BIG fridge on the back porch with anything you can think of in it...help yourself...of course only take what you can LEGALLY have. Make yourself at home on one of the big fluffy couches, kick your shoes off, put your feet up on one of the tables, yes we are allowed to do that, mom's, dad's, wive's, husband's, girlfriend's and boyfriend's here don't care....and take it easy.

oh...btw....every once in a while a food fight breaks out...so you may not want to wear nice clothes here.

Welcome!!

simple man · 07-31-2013, 10:45 AM

If you smelled something burning, you could have a melted battery post and or burned cable. You may still have a good battery pack voltage reading until you try to move the cart. I'd check all your high current cables and battery posts for damage. If all is Ok there, try using your multimeter to measure the battery pack voltage while attempting to move the cart. If it drops significantly, you have a bad connection in the high current cables. If it doesn't change, you'll have to do a bit more diagnosis. " JohnnieB " has you on the right track, but check all those connections first. Burning smell is always caused by a bad connection, unless it was the controller, but do the connections before any controller test.

ab46501 · 07-31-2013, 11:13 AM

I would check all the cables to make sure they are tight. Check the FNR and the cables at the motor extra close. Look for where it got hot and burnt and you most likely will find your problem.

TxPowderCoater · 07-31-2013, 12:13 PM

id bet the FNR switch

Sorceress · 07-31-2013, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Welcome to BGW!

The 0.5 to 2.5V less than pack voltage is only true when the controller is drawing an "Idle " current and if you overheated the controller when you pulled the lawn tractor up the hill, it may no longer be drawing an idle current.

Leave the resistor (and diode) off when you reinstall the solenoid. They should be installed for use, but not needed while troubleshooting.

Without the resistor, the controller side voltage will be zero when the solenoid is de-energized and full pack voltage when it is energized.

Does the solenoid click when you push the pedal?
If it doesn't we need to troubleshot the solenoid activation circuit.
If it does, we need to troubleshoot the high current circuit.

What type drive, series or DCS?

It is a series cart and when I turn on the key with the cart in forward or reverse before I even touch the accelerator pedal the solenoid clicks and stays on. Seems to be activated by turning the key.

Sir Nuke · 07-31-2013, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sorceress

It is a series cart and when I turn on the key with the cart in forward or reverse before I even touch the accelerator pedal the solenoid clicks and stays on. Seems to be activated by turning the key.

it shouldn't be.....it shouldn't activate until you start to press on the accelorator.

07-30-2013, 06:26 PM	#1
Sorceress Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2013 Posts: 38	It's All my Fault Several weeks ago I had to use my 1997 TXT 36 Volt series cart to tow my lawn tractor that was disabled at the bottom of my hill. It was slow going but the cart was handling the load and I finally got it up the hill into my barn. By the time I reached the barn I could smell something burning. I just thought it was the motor stating to overheat from the load that it was subjected to. A few days later when I tried to use my cart no forward or backward motion. I did some preliminary voltage checks and found the following. My voltage coming off my battery pack is 38.3 volts. When I checked the voltage between my battery negative terminal and the controller side of my solenoid with the key off and my direction selector in neutral there should have been a 0.5 to 2.5 volts less than my 38.3 volts. According to the diagnostics guide if the reference voltage of 38.3 volts is the same voltage on the controller side of the solenoid they say to replace the solenoid because it could be welded. I took off the solenoid and did a continuity check across both terminals and if it was welded I should of had continuity. The problem is that when I checked it showed as an open circuit so I think the solenoid is okay.
Sorceress Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2013 Posts: 38

07-31-2013, 06:39 AM	#2
JohnnieB Techno-Nerd Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: West Virginia Posts: 19,654	Re: It's All my Fault Welcome to BGW! The 0.5 to 2.5V less than pack voltage is only true when the controller is drawing an "Idle " current and if you overheated the controller when you pulled the lawn tractor up the hill, it may no longer be drawing an idle current. Leave the resistor (and diode) off when you reinstall the solenoid. They should be installed for use, but not needed while troubleshooting. Without the resistor, the controller side voltage will be zero when the solenoid is de-energized and full pack voltage when it is energized. Does the solenoid click when you push the pedal? If it doesn't we need to troubleshot the solenoid activation circuit. If it does, we need to troubleshoot the high current circuit. What type drive, series or DCS?

07-31-2013, 07:07 AM	#4
JohnnieB Techno-Nerd Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: West Virginia Posts: 19,654	Re: It's All my Fault If the resistor was also disconnected, it sure sounds like welded contacts in the solenoid. However, welded solenoid contacts won't keep the cart from moving.

07-31-2013, 07:47 AM	#5
Sir Nuke Master of All Things Join Date: May 2013 Location: West Columbia, Texas Posts: 18,637	Re: It's All my Fault Sorceress, JohnnieB has you back on your issue......so Welcome to our happy little corner of the net, and to BGW. There is a BIG fridge on the back porch with anything you can think of in it...help yourself...of course only take what you can LEGALLY have. Make yourself at home on one of the big fluffy couches, kick your shoes off, put your feet up on one of the tables, yes we are allowed to do that, mom's, dad's, wive's, husband's, girlfriend's and boyfriend's here don't care....and take it easy. oh...btw....every once in a while a food fight breaks out...so you may not want to wear nice clothes here. Welcome!!

07-31-2013, 10:45 AM	#6
simple man Gone Wild Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Bunnell, Florida Posts: 2,408	Re: It's All my Fault If you smelled something burning, you could have a melted battery post and or burned cable. You may still have a good battery pack voltage reading until you try to move the cart. I'd check all your high current cables and battery posts for damage. If all is Ok there, try using your multimeter to measure the battery pack voltage while attempting to move the cart. If it drops significantly, you have a bad connection in the high current cables. If it doesn't change, you'll have to do a bit more diagnosis. " JohnnieB " has you on the right track, but check all those connections first. Burning smell is always caused by a bad connection, unless it was the controller, but do the connections before any controller test.

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07-31-2013, 11:13 AM	#7
ab46501 Gone Wild Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Olive Branch, MS Posts: 313	Re: It's All my Fault I would check all the cables to make sure they are tight. Check the FNR and the cables at the motor extra close. Look for where it got hot and burnt and you most likely will find your problem.

07-31-2013, 12:13 PM	#8
TxPowderCoater Getting Wild Join Date: May 2013 Posts: 137	Re: It's All my Fault id bet the FNR switch

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