It's All my Fault

[JohnnieB]

Sounds like there may be two problems.
1. Solenoid clicking before pedal is pushed
2. Cart won't run.

1. If the solenoid de-energizes when the Key is turn off, or when the F/R selector is in Neutral, the pedal switch is staying closed or there is a short in the wiring that is by-passing it somehow.
Attachment-1 is a schematic with the solenoid activation circuit highlighted.

2. From what you've said earlier, you have full battery pack voltage on the controller side of the solenoid, so the cart should move or something is amiss in the high current loop.

Connect your DVM between the B- and M- terminals on the controller.
You should measure FULL battery pack voltage when the solenoid is energized.
If not, there is an open in the high current circuit someplace.
Attachment-2 is a schematic with High Current circuit highlighted.

[Sorceress]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Sounds like there may be two problems.
1. Solenoid clicking before pedal is pushed
2. Cart won't run.

1. If the solenoid de-energizes when the Key is turn off, or when the F/R selector is in Neutral, the pedal switch is staying closed or there is a short in the wiring that is by-passing it somehow.
Attachment-1 is a schematic with the solenoid activation circuit highlighted.

2. From what you've said earlier, you have full battery pack voltage on the controller side of the solenoid, so the cart should move or something is amiss in the high current loop.

Connect your DVM between the B- and M- terminals on the controller.
You should measure FULL battery pack voltage when the solenoid is energized.
If not, there is an open in the high current circuit someplace.
Attachment-2 is a schematic with High Current circuit highlighted.

Thanks for your expert advise. I will try and check tonight and let you know.

[Sorceress]

I took the pedal cover off and found the micro switch's lever broken off the switch so that will need to be replaced. That is why, when I turned on the ignition switch the solenoid would be energized before I even depress the accelerator pedal because of the broken switch. I did check the B- and M- terminals on the controller and there was no voltage present when the solenoid was energized so it looks like I have an open circuit in the high current circuit. Right now I need to order a replacement micro switch before I go any further.
Thanks

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Sorceress

..................Right now I need to order a replacement micro switch before I go any further..............

I wouldn't drive it much before replacing the pedal microswitch, but as long as the solenoid contacts are closing, you can still troubleshoot the high current circuit.

As others have mentioned, the F/R switch is high on the list of suspects, but it could be any of the 13 cables and their 26 connections.

[Sorceress]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

I wouldn't drive it much before replacing the pedal microswitch, but as long as the solenoid contacts are closing, you can still troubleshoot the high current circuit.

As others have mentioned, the F/R switch is high on the list of suspects, but it could be any of the 13 cables and their 26 connections.

I am keeping my fingers crossed it is not the controller or motor. When I check all my high current cables and F/R switch should I be looking for voltage readings or checking for continuity?

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Sorceress

I am keeping my fingers crossed it is not the controller or motor. When I check all my high current cables and F/R switch should I be looking for voltage readings or checking for continuity?

Voltage.

Leave negative test lead connected to B- terminal on controller.
Check the four terminals on the F/R switch with the positive test lead.
They should all be full battery pack voltage.

[Sorceress]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Voltage.

Leave negative test lead connected to B- terminal on controller.
Check the four terminals on the F/R switch with the positive test lead.
They should all be full battery pack voltage.

Well I replaced the broken micro-switch on the pedal assembly and wala, everything fired up correctly and my cart is back in business. Thanks for all your help and everyone else who chimed in. Amazing how a $5 part stopped my cart in its tracks!

[Sir Nuke]

Glad you are back in business!

[JohnnieB]