Help with Hyndai Electric Cart - Solenoid

[scott8175]

Originally Posted by Sergio

You can clearly see the diode in your picture is backwards.

The stripe on the diode should be on the same small terminal as the Positive activation wire.

The micro switch in the pot box and possibly the diode are damaged by now and should be replaced.

I think I did try reversing that, but I will make sure to put it the way you say. I wasn't sure either about the resister that goes between the large posts. But I will move that diode.

[Sergio]

The resistor does not have polarity so either side can go in either big post.

With the diode backwards there would be a direct short from pack positive to negative as soon as you press the pedal.

The micro-switch inside the pot box most likely fried as soon as you press the pedal and there is a good probability the diode is now shorted.

If You going to re use the diode you better test it before powering the system since if it is shorted it will fry the new micro-switch.

[scott8175]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The resistor does not have polarity so either side can go in either big post.

With the diode backwards there would be a direct short from pack positive to negative as soon as you press the pedal.

The micro-switch inside the pot box most likely fried as soon as you press the pedal and there is a good probability the diode is now shorted.

If You going to re use the diode you better test it before powering the system since if it is shorted it will fry the new micro-switch.

I will try to find a new diode somehwere, thank you....this is prob a stupid question, can the diode be left off, just to test? I don't know much about these things.

[Sergio]

Yes, since you have a mechanical micro-switch activating the solenoid coil it is safe to leave the diode off for testing or short term use while you wait on a diode.

You can get them from Amazon if you don't have a local source.

[ThreeCW]

Your wiring diagram shows 3 switches wired in series that all have to be in the closed position for the solenoid to activate. These switches are the main switch (I assume this is the key switch), a cut off switch and a stop switch (that is in throttle pot box).

I am not sure what the "cut off switch" is ... do you have a seat switch / operators presence switch on your cart?

As Sergio says, the micro switch in your pot box may have failed. If that checks out, you will also want to check the functionality of the the other two switches as well ... as all 3 have to be closed to operate.

[scott8175]

Originally Posted by ThreeCW

Your wiring diagram shows 3 switches wired in series that all have to be in the closed position for the solenoid to activate. These switches are the main switch (I assume this is the key switch), a cut off switch and a stop switch (that is in throttle pot box).

I am not sure what the "cut off switch" is ... do you have a seat switch / operators presence switch on your cart?

As Sergio says, the micro switch in your pot box may have failed. If that checks out, you will also want to check the functionality of the the other two switches as well ... as all 3 have to be closed to operate.

Thanks...i know when i bypassed the solenoid before, the seat was up, so i dont think thats an issue, ill have to see ifni can check those switchhes

[ThreeCW]

Originally Posted by scott8175

Thanks...i know when i bypassed the solenoid before, the seat was up, so i dont think thats an issue, ill have to see ifni can check those switchhes

If you had a seat switch, it would have two wires going to it ... if there is no wiring or switch visible under on the bottom of the drivers seat, you likely don't have a seat switch.

Sergio - Any idea where the "cut off switch" shown in the wiring diagram may be located?

[Sergio]

The cut off switch is probably the "limit switch" in the FNR.

Assuming the backup buzzer is working, You can easily test that switch by putting the cart in reverse, if the buzzer makes a sound then the "cutoff switch" is working.

While any switch can go bad, in case of a short like you did, the destructive event happens on the contacts of the "making" switch (Stop switch in your diagram) and not typically on switches that were already closed.

If the buzzer works but you don't have 36v on the Solenoid Red/White wire when the pedal is pressed, the "stop" micro-switch inside the pot box is damaged.

[scott8175]

You guys are very helpful...thank you....hopefully i have time to get back out there and work on it this weekend and will report back.

[Sergio]

You did test the 10 amp fuse already, correct?

That fuse could also have blown during the short.