Help with Hyndai Electric Cart - Solenoid

[scott8175]

Originally Posted by Sergio

You did test the 10 amp fuse already, correct?

That fuse could also have blown during the short.

I looked at the fuse and it doesn't look blown, i did not test it

[scott8175]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Yes, since you have a mechanical micro-switch activating the solenoid coil it is safe to leave the diode off for testing or short term use while you wait on a diode.

You can get them from Amazon if you don't have a local source.

Since noone hardly list OEM parts for these, are the diodes for carts all pretty much the same, they seem to all say 3 amp?

[Sergio]

When used as a flyback device the diode is sized for the Solenoid coil current and 3 amps is more than enough for most Solenoids used in golf carts.

You can get a big supply for under $8:

https://www.amazon.com/50-Pieces-1N5...r_1_5?dchild=1

Some heavy duty contactors when used in cold climates may require a larger initial current to activate so the flyback current would also be higher in those instances, the difference in price for the higher current diodes is very small so You can always go for a larger one if you have other applications for them like the "Regen" diode used on the solenoid big posts in some Sepex controllers like the Alltrax XCT:

https://www.amazon.com/MCIGICM-Recti...r_1_3?dchild=1

[scott8175]

Originally Posted by Sergio

When used as a flyback device the diode is sized for the Solenoid coil current and 3 amps is more than enough for most Solenoids used in golf carts.

You can get a big supply for under $8:

https://www.amazon.com/50-Pieces-1N5...r_1_5?dchild=1

Some heavy duty contactors when used in cold climates may require a larger initial current to activate so the flyback current would also be higher in those instances, the difference in price for the higher current diodes is very small so You can always go for a larger one if you have other applications for them like the "Regen" diode used on the solenoid big posts in some Sepex controllers like the Alltrax XCT:

https://www.amazon.com/MCIGICM-Recti...r_1_3?dchild=1

you are most helpful sir

[scott8175]

Removed diode and still no go. Trying to find the stop switch as sergio mentioned...either of these look familiar?

[Sergio]

It would be a micro-switch activated by the accelerator pedal or inside your throttle/pot box.

The first picture shows a few micro-switches but they may be the brake and parking brake ones if they are depressed when you press the brake.

[scott8175]

Originally Posted by Sergio

It would be a micro-switch activated by the accelerator pedal or inside your throttle/pot box.

The first picture shows a few micro-switches but they may be the brake and parking brake ones if they are depressed when you press the brake.

ok thanks, i'll look again, the first pic is behind the FNR switch

[Sergio]

Sorry, I am not familiar with your cart and could not tell what that was from the the close up picture.

So is that the reverse buzzer in the second picture?

If so and it works, then the "Cut Off" switch is good and you don't need to test.

The pot box will have wires going to the controller terminals 1,2 and 3.

[scott8175]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Sorry, I am not familiar with your cart and could not tell what that was from the the close up picture.

So is that the reverse buzzer in the second picture?

If so and it works, then the "Cut Off" switch is good and you don't need to test.

The pot box will have wires going to the controller terminals 1,2 and 3.

it does NOT buzz when i put the switch to Reverse

[Sergio]

If the buzzer was working before it could be good news, meaning the fuse is blown.

Do You have power at the key switch?

If You follow the diagram you can find where the power stops. The power comes from (in sequence):

The Solenoid big stud where the cable battery is connected
The 10 amp fuse
the Key switch
The micro-switch at the FNR
The micro-switch at the Pot box
The Solenoid small post (banded side of diode)
Controller Terminal #1