1999 non dcs ezgo motor

[gardnerphoto]

Well bought a 1999 ezgo txt,did not run,no solenoid click(problem was reed switch in charger port- fixed it), jacked up on jack stands,wheels turned very slow, c& d on forward reverse got hot,check and double checked wiring,inspected motor,It had wrong motor on cart, luckily I had another motor from non DCS, replaced motor,now runs !,Question... What type motor do I have that will mount up right,but cause the c and d wires to get hot?

[JohnnieB]

Probably a bad one by now.

A DCS or PDS sepex motors and their aftermarket replacements, will mount to the differential, but the field windings are only designed to pass about 10% of the armature current, so when they are feed by a series motor setup, they overheat, burning the insulation off the wires they are made of and the windings short together. Which in turn, could overheat the C &D terminals/cables on a series types F.R switch.

Does the motor have a label with manufacturer name and model number?
We might be able to identify it with that info.

[gardnerphoto]

All the labels have been removed or painted over,See pic

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by gardnerphoto

All the labels have been removed or painted over,See pic

The S1/S2 studs appear to be smaller than the A1/A2 studs. If so, it is a sepex motor.

Can you post a picture shot from the shaft end showing the field windings?

The difference between Series and Sepex motors can be seen at the top of the attached guide.

[gardnerphoto]

Pics posted,Have another cart,will this work on DCS cart,stock controller

[gardnerphoto]

Pic

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by gardnerphoto

Pics posted,Have another cart,will this work on DCS cart,stock controller

No, that is a series wound motor. It has thick flat ribbons for the field windings.
Attached is what a sepex motor looks like


I must have been mistaken about it having different sized studs. Hard to tell by looking at an angle in a picture.

I'd check out the motor very thoroughly before putting it in a cart. Overheating the studs/cables on a F/R switch could mean it has some shorts in it and a motor with shorts will take out a controller.