Why does my DC-DC reducer have constant 12v

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by Dstock

This is weird. I had EZGO send me the installation instructions and it says to connect it up as I have it which results in always having 12v to the fuse block. I will pull off the converter and see if the label/plug shows how I can hook it up to be switched to the fuse block instead.

What I did was to put a on/off switch on the RED power wire between the + on the batteries and the converter......as I didn't want the converter powered up at all times, only when I want/need to use something.

[ewiggins7299]

Since you live in the area..FYI, South Houston Golf Carts is where I go for dealer stuff. They are part of Golf Cars of Houston but aren't near as pricy. They may be able to help you out. This is also where I bought my cart this summer. Like I said, mine was refurbished. My reducer is an unknown brand. Its definitely not a MadJax or the one you have. I think Golf Cars of Houston does the rebuilds and S. Houston brings some down to sell. I would imagine that my reducer came out of a graveyard by looking at it. It works though so I am good with it. When I installed my radio, I had a black and red coming out of the reducer and going to nothing. I tested it and found my constant 12v. I then discovered that the fuse block was switched. If you want to spend money, the Madjax looks like it is set up like mine. With a constant 12v and a switched. If not, it should be easy to make your own.

[Dstock]

Ewiggins thanks for the info!

Cgtech, you were right! I have those number in my plug. It's hooked up to constant 12v. So now the question is where to get ignition 48v? From the key switch I guess. I have looked there and see 2 blue with white and a white with yellow wire. What color should it be or does anyone have the key switch schematic? I would like to avoid pulling the plate to use my DVM since I don't have a rivet gun to replace it. Thanks.

[Dstock]

Just to finish this thread in case anyone cares in the future. I removed the red rubber weather proof seal from the plug to the D.C. Converter and orange plug/retainer with a small screw driver to pry them both gently off of the plug. I moved the green wire from the #4 to the #5 switched 12v. I purchased some D-sub pins (used in computer connections) from Fry's and I crimped it onto a new yellow wired and I steered it into the #2 switched 48v slot on the plug. I ran the new yellow wire through the stock look up to the key switch "I" terminal in the center. I was able to pop the rivet out from behind the key plate after removing the cup holder so I could reuse the rivets yay I was woriednabout where to get these.

It works like expected now. No voltage at the fuse block until swited to the on position and then 12v. The lights work when sister at the key. Thanks everyone!