EZGO RXV- Intermittently Running

[IslandCart]

I have a 2008 RXV that a customer brought in for new tires and inspection. The first time I got on the cart it ran fine. The next time I went to move it, I turned the key switch to forward and the cart bucked a little and then an alarm started buzzing. I immediately tried to re-engage the key switch to reverse, off then forward again. I got the same thing. I did a little research, checked battery voltage, checked voltage under a load, made sure the brake and accelerator were pulled all the way back to normal position, checked the tow/run switch, and checked the wires under the cup holder. I still get intermittent use. I called the customer and she said it had been doing this for about a year. Someone had replaced a sensor under the floor and told her to keep it sprayed with WD-40 if it started acting up again, LOL! I didnt take the car in to work on this issue but felt obligated to try and help correct it as she has been stranded before with the problem. 25% of the time I can get on the cart and it drives as expected. The other 75% it attempts to go into gear but bucks a little forward or reverse and the alarm sounds. Any suggestions? Im not up to speed on the RXV.

[MUDSLINGER250]

Most times than not when it's doing that it needs a new motor brake. Mines on my trailer right now it does the exact same thing waiting for a new motor brake.

[IslandCart]

Thank you! Have you priced the Motor Brake? If so, where did you find the best deal?

[MUDSLINGER250]

I buy mine off Ebay. The range in price from 110 up to 250. Theres a few on there in the 80 and 90 dollar price range dont get those they're not iem brakes I'd stick with the OEM brakes. Bad thing is like everything else even though its OEM and new doesnt mean its non defective. I'm in the process now of returning one I just ordered that's showing a bad coil. Cant really blame the seller on there these brakes are built in a factory they just sell em. Good thing is I think he'll do a straight swap with me on it so no big deal.

[IslandCart]

Thank you! Any other suggestions?

[rngilliland]

Get the standard brake not the HD one. Part # 610065 Ebay seem to have the best prices.

[rngilliland]

Check the three bolts that hold the brake on. Make sure you clean up any corrosion on the bolts and check them for damage. The pressure plate, in the brake, rides on the bolts and over time they wear.

This is how I install the brake. Leave the batteries hooked up. Just make sure the key is off when you unplug and plug in the brake. Jack both rear tires up. Slide the brake on and turn it to line up the bolt holes. Get one or two of the bolts started. The third bolt is usually hard to start. So I plug the brake in, turn the switch to N and flip the run/tow switch to tow. That releases the brake and makes it easy to get the bolt started. Flip the run/tow switch back and forth a few times and leave it in tow. Tighten the bolts evenly to 50 in/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench only tighten the bolts until the lock washers are compressed.

IMO making sure the bolts are clean and not damaged, tightening them evenly to the minimum torque, and making sure the run/tow switch is in tow when you tighten them are key to making the brake last.

[nickdalzell1]

The error you're describing sounds like the infamous 25107 brake slipping error. A new brake doesnt fix it. Just the tiniest motion of the car during power up causes it. Later revisions of the Danahar software removes this "feature" (version 5.8, via handheld)