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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 05-16-2019, 09:30 AM   #11
Speedfreak95
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Default Re: Trial and error?

The cart is a 1997 not sure I have anything to plug into
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Old 05-16-2019, 09:38 AM   #12
yurtle
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Default Re: Trial and error?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedfreak95 View Post
The cart is a 1997 not sure I have anything to plug into
Stock controller. I must have confused yours with another who upgraded to an Alltrax controller. I'd still check the Molex. Mine would sometimes leave me stranded until I unplugged/replugged a few times. I cut it off and soldered the wires and used a marine grade heat-shrink.
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Old 05-16-2019, 12:07 PM   #13
JohnnieB
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Default Re: Trial and error?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedfreak95 View Post
Okay so with all that has been upgraded once I get that reverse contactor in I’m gonna start seeing more power to the motor and I’ll be back in that 19mph range?
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Originally Posted by Speedfreak95 View Post
The hd f/r and the reverse contactor seem to be a difference of what $30? After I change out the f/r the only stock component is going to be my controller guess the way this has been working that will probably be upgraded as well.. still baffled on where 3-4 extra mph appear and disappear from time to time
The max RPM a series DC traction motor spins is determined by three primary factors.
1. The relative strengths of the electromagnets formed by the field and armature windings.
2. The voltage applied to the motor.
3. The mechanical load imposed on the motor.

The way the series motor is wound doesn't change after leaving the factory and the mechanical loading probably matches the terrain fairly consistently, so the voltage being applied to the motor is about 25% lower when the cart's speed is about 25% slower.

The battery pack voltage getting 25% lower at times is a possibility.
The voltage getting to the controller is 25% lower at times.
The voltage the controller applies to the motor is also a possibility.

The ability of the F/R switch contacts to pass a high number of amps can change, so the F/R switch is the most likely suspect, but neither the battery pack nor the controller can be exonerated at this time.

What is the voltage between the battery pack's main negative and main positive when cart is running slow?

What is the voltage between the controller's B- and B+ terminals when cart is running slow?

What is the voltage between the controller's M- and B+ terminals when cart is running slow?
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:15 PM   #14
yurtle
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Default Re: Trial and error?

If Molex were bad and throttle signal were sometimes bad, couldn't that explain it w/o a significant voltage drop?
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Old 05-16-2019, 09:23 PM   #15
Speedfreak95
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Default Re: Trial and error?

Not familiar with molex what is that? Battery pack is less than a month old could I be having an issue with my charger? Only stock items on the cart are the stock controller/ f/r switch assuming it’s a 1997 frame there original and have taken a beating in 22 years
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Old 05-17-2019, 04:19 AM   #16
yurtle
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Default Re: Trial and error?

See post 10. It's a four wire plug the connects the cable from the throttle box to the wiring harness. It's usually located just like the picture shows, between the FNR and the controller/solenoid.

Definitely do the tests JohnnyB said, and report back.
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Old 05-18-2019, 05:33 PM   #17
Speedfreak95
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Default Re: Trial and error?

Went cruising today for about an hour. I was in the 19-21 mph range with the high of 23mph.. not a hiccup. I checked the f/r with my hand cool to the touch but my 200amp solenoid was very hott? Wires were a light warm but I figured after going full speed about 30-40 mins that’s expected. I didn’t get a chance to do any tests
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Old 05-26-2019, 08:29 PM   #18
Speedfreak95
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Default Re: Trial and error?

I eliminated the molex connector today. I spliced the wires and used shrink wrap to finish it. The cart seemed more accurate around the higher teens. I used it on and off for awhile. The one time it wasn’t as powerful I switched back the f/r a few times like recommended and I was back on track. Guess a new f/r switch isabont to be on order
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Old 05-27-2019, 06:22 AM   #19
DaveTM
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Default Re: Trial and error?

If your going to replace your F\R switch, I would highly recommend going with a HD contactor switch. (I bot mine from Scotty B) The EZ-GO lever shift F\R switch is the weakest link in the entire setup. I've found my contactor switch to work flawlessly for over two years now.
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Old 05-27-2019, 06:37 PM   #20
Speedfreak95
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Default Re: Trial and error?

How is installation for the connector switch? Am I going to have to change out the wire ends with larger fittings then the 5/16s
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