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Electric Yamaha Electric Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles



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Old 07-05-2020, 01:23 PM   #1
offgridcart
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Default G22E Power

2004 G22E, new Crown 190 batteries, stock wires, Trombetta 114-4811-020-07 solenoid installed 9/30/2014, controller; maybe stock, remanufactured with unknown amperage FSIP internals, GE gray motor; brushes protruding 3/16" from end of housing and I'd say all are 7/8" long measured on the short side of the curved end. I was surprised at what seemed like stacked plate roughness of the commutator. I am used to seeing commutator segments that resemble solid copper across the 'bar'. The brushes had corresponding ridges. Gaps between the segments cleaned out easy enough.
Anyway, while most post I read are attempting to increase speed, I am trying to maximize power for pulling a utility trailer doing farm and forest work. This includes starting from stop on hills. And yes, with work limitations of the current shutdown, budget is a big priority.
If it helps any, more than once my sweetheart was unable to make it up some hills in the woods, and that prompted checking all the wire connections, state of battery charge, and pulling the motor to check the inside. Hill climbing was noticeably improved following the reinstallation. Amperage reading at the batteries, vehicle at stop and short interval pulling against a sling, is about 92 amps at 47.0vdc. At rest, 50.3vdc
Would wire upgrade be expected to help in this situation? I am reading elsewhere that stock wires are 6 ga. I have 2ga welding wire, or 4ought for that matter, and am good with terminals, but it would make no sense if everything is performing as well as could be expected.
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Old 07-05-2020, 03:26 PM   #2
cgtech
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Default Re: G22E Power

Cables might make a little difference, but your biggest limiter is the controller, then your motor will thank you for the controller upgrade by allowing you the early "opportunity" to upgrade your motor (according to how you use it).
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Old 07-12-2020, 08:41 AM   #3
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Default Re: G22E Power

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgtech View Post
Cables might make a little difference, but your biggest limiter is the controller, then your motor will thank you for the controller upgrade by allowing you the early "opportunity" to upgrade your motor (according to how you use it).
Thanks for the reply cgtech.

By badd for not realizing sooner that you had replied. I was expecting I would get an email notification. I totally missed seeing the subscription boxes below.

I fantasize that my work will get better and I can buy my sweetheart a high torque motor, let's say the equivalent of a 122-48VTORQEEY or other that will fit the G22E. It seems from your post elsewhere that an Alltrax 400 or 500 is a good step in that direction.

- How much additional current can "safely" be pushed through the GE motor without exponentially shortening its life?

- With regards to dialing back the controller as mentioned on post elsewhere, is this done with a computer interface or other?
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Old 07-12-2020, 11:47 AM   #4
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Default Re: G22E Power

Well, the stock controller was likely 300a, and you use it pretty hard, I'd say set it at 400a, and know that your stock motor does not appreciate the way your using the cart. One thing that hasn't been mentioned is tire height, I'm assuming they're not stock.

On a alltrax controller, you make adjustments by plugging it to your laptop, using a super common "usb printer cable", and the free software from alltrax's website.
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Old 07-13-2020, 06:39 AM   #5
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Default Re: G22E Power

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgtech View Post
Well, the stock controller was likely 300a, and you use it pretty hard, I'd say set it at 400a, and know that your stock motor does not appreciate the way your using the cart. One thing that hasn't been mentioned is tire height, I'm assuming they're not stock.
If the controller is anywhere near 300a, does it surprise you that I would only be reading 92a on a battery interconnect wire? (in a brief stationary locked rotor condition)

As to the tires, 18x8.50-8 with 13 count chains. I would think this would maximize available pulling torque rather than taller tire options.
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Old 07-13-2020, 10:39 AM   #6
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Default Re: G22E Power

I like your thinking on the tires .

Your motor can only draw full power when at full throttle, and zero rpm. Even at 5 rpm, it cant draw max power anymore.
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Old 07-13-2020, 12:49 PM   #7
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Default Re: G22E Power

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgtech View Post
Your motor can only draw full power when at full throttle, and zero rpm. Even at 5 rpm, it cant draw max power anymore.
cgtech, thanks. FYI The 92a is at a complete standstill after the sling is pulled taught and pedal then floored, wheels not spinning, just long enough to get the reading, so I am guessing close to zero rpm.

If the stock controller is able to throughput maybe 300a, it seems like the initial addition, besides a wire upgrade might be better pointed towards a motor with higher torque rather than a controller, or am I not seeing this correctly?
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Old 07-13-2020, 02:52 PM   #8
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Default Re: G22E Power

Well, the stock motor should be capable of drawing over 500a at zero rpm (not saying it will live a long happy life if given everything it "could pull"). I'm thinking your controller may not be allowing it access to all the amps it could use. Remember, the controller isnt a "amp pump", but a "amp valve" that allows the motor access to amps as it sees fit/is able to.
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Old 07-14-2020, 11:50 AM   #9
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Default Re: G22E Power

I did forget to mention initially that the throttle control switch tested positive for all three wires at the motor control connector: across the three pairs with pedal at rest and fully depressed; infinite resistance, 5000ohm, 0-5000ohm.

More in a bit regarding a possible controller output test.
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Old 07-16-2020, 07:18 AM   #10
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Default Re: G22E Power

Oh, I was wondering if there could be a way to test controller output. I was trying to visualize using the controller as a charging gateway to 'charge' a separate 'dummy load' battery bank. There are too many complications in the electronics of the controller that are way above my paygrade to go down that path. This includes what damage could occur if F1 and F2 are not connected to anything during operation. Heck, just looking at the wiring diagram and wires A1 and A2, it's not for me an easy cut and dry this one is the positive & this one is the negative lead. My sweetheart would not be a happy camper if I fried the controller.

But I hear you saying that the motor can draw up to 500a, and therein is the test. If the contactor terminals are not getting hot, the controller must be the limiting factor.

Controller upgrade will benefit from wire upgrade. I will recheck test current after wire replacement, as well as bypassing the relay.

Lots else going on, so it may be a while until next test update. Thanks so much for the assistance.
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