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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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10-18-2020, 03:51 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Buena Vista, PA
Posts: 4
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1985 36 volt ez go, does not move
I am new to this golf cart scene. I have 1985 EZGO cart that ran and worked fine. It sat in my garage for about a week. I went to use it and uplugged the charger, turned the key on , put it in reverse pressed the pedal and it moved a few inches and I heard a loud popping noise. I thought I ran something over and popped a tire, all the tires were good. That was the last that it moved on its own.
I have checked the voltage across the batteries and it is about 38 volts. I did not hear the solenoid clicking I had a spare so I changed it out, same effect. What direction should I go from there? I am an electrician with a decent knowledge level but a zero knowledge level on golf carts. |
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10-18-2020, 07:47 AM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 2,827
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Re: 1985 36 volt ez go, does not move
Check out this thread: https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=1536
go to the 3rd post on that thread and find the wiring diagram that best matches what you've got. Resistor carts are relatively simple. See where you're current path is breaking down. If the solenoid isn't clicking it's probably in the small wires (control circuit): ignition switch, throttle microswitch, shifter microswitch and the wiring between them. Last edited by meimk; 10-18-2020 at 07:48 AM.. Reason: spelling |
10-18-2020, 08:22 AM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Buena Vista, PA
Posts: 4
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Re: 1985 36 volt ez go, does not move
Is there a way to raise the back of the cart off the ground and test the motor? As I said there was a popping noise, not sure what that noise could have been.
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10-18-2020, 08:51 AM | #4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 2,827
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Re: 1985 36 volt ez go, does not move
If the solenoid doesn't engage you don't have power going to the motor to begin with. Many possibilities for causing a "Pop": switch blowing up wiring falling apart and shorting against something, any foreign items getting cooked in the resistor coils, just for starters. But yes you can test the motor itself.
First write up I came across is compliments of Fairtax4me: To test a Series motor, Use a multimeter set to continuity test function. You should have continuity from A1 to A2, and From F1 to F2. You should not have continuity from any A stud to any F stud. You should not have continuity from any stud to the motor case. To test motor function, use a 4 or 6ga jumper wire connected from A2 stud to F1 stud. Connect A1 stud to positive power source. Connect F2 stud to negative power source. The motor should spin. If it does not there is an internal problem in the motor. Use first test above to narrow down possibilities. A 12v battery works best as the power source for testing, or use two of the carts batteries connected in series for 12v. Do not apply full 36v power to the motor or this can cause the motor to over-run and cause damage, assuming the motor still works. Make sure the rear wheels of the cart are lifted off of the ground. Do not leave the cables connected for a long period of time. |
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