1984 Club car, feels like its almost skipping a gear?

[Sergio]

While you may still have bad solenoids, you definitely have stuck micro switches in the "speed box" or the pedal/linkage is out of adjustment causing the micro-switch to be pressed when the pedal is UP.

Since the issue is on the positive activation side (The negative comes from the key switch and only works when it is ON), that will be a lot easier to track.

With the Key Switch OFF and the cart in Neutral, measure the voltage in each of the solenoid small posts with the individual wire that comes from the "speed box" (not the small posts that are linked together).

The meter negative probe should be on the pack negative battery post.

If any post measures pack voltage that means its corresponding micro-switch inside the "speed box" is already closed and completing the circuit.

The issue is that as soon as you turn the key switch ON and the cart is either in Forward or Reverse, you provide the negative to all solenoids small posts that are linked together and the solenoid that already has the positive activation signal closes.


When a solenoid is "welded" the cart will run as soon as it is in Forward or Reverse even with the Key OFF since your don't need the activation signals provided by the micro-switches in order to close them.



Once you get that resolved you can test the solenoids.

I think the best way to check them is to remove the copper bus-bar that connects all the big posts on one side.

Once that is removed just do a continuity test in each solenoid between the big posts, any solenoid that shows continuity needs to be replace as the contacts are welded closed.

[LEMANSZ20]

Originally Posted by Sergio

While you may still have bad solenoids, you definitely have stuck micro switches in the "speed box" or the pedal/linkage is out of adjustment causing the micro-switch to be pressed when the pedal is UP.

Since the issue is on the positive activation side (The negative comes from the key switch and only works when it is ON), that will be a lot easier to track.

With the Key Switch OFF and the cart in Neutral, measure the voltage in each of the solenoid small posts with the individual wire that comes from the "speed box" (not the small posts that are linked together).

The meter negative probe should be on the pack negative battery post.

If any post measures pack voltage that means its corresponding micro-switch inside the "speed box" is already closed and completing the circuit.

The issue is that as soon as you turn the key switch ON and the cart is either in Forward or Reverse, you provide the negative to all solenoids small posts that are linked together and the solenoid that already has the positive activation signal closes.


When a solenoid is "welded" the cart will run as soon as it is in Forward or Reverse even with the Key OFF since your don't need the activation signals provided by the micro-switches in order to close them.



Once you get that resolved you can test the solenoids.

I think the best way to check them is to remove the copper bus-bar that connects all the big posts on one side.

Once that is removed just do a continuity test in each solenoid between the big posts, any solenoid that shows continuity needs to be replace as the contacts are welded closed.

I think I understand what your saying, im more of a visual guy so maybe when i see it. Are you think the speed box needs to be replaced?

[Sergio]

You just need to replace the bad micro-switch(s).

There are several micro-switches inside that speed box that close one at the time as you press on the accelerator and that plate moves underneath the levers.

They close starting with the main solenoid (far right) and move to the left.