Club car Diesel Side by Side dead after washing!

[MSDiesel1700]

Thanks @Cartmaster and @ThreeCW. Hope you guys or someone is still out there to advise!
Also, sorry for the delayed updates but I only get to work on this when I'm not at work.
Well I finally located a wiring diagram! Hopefully I can get some guidance on where I should go next.

In addition to fuses and relays, there are apparently diodes and fusible links in this wiring. Considering, I can start the cart by jumping power to the hot wire to my key switch, what on this diagram should I be focused on?

[Cartmaster]

My focus would be on the 30 amp fuse that supplies the ignition switch. It may look OK, but I would check that it is actually passing current / voltage to the ignition switch. The fusible link seems to protect the alternator circuit, so not relevant as far as I see.

[ThreeCW]

Originally Posted by MSDiesel1700

Considering, I can start the cart by jumping power to the hot wire to my key switch, what on this diagram should I be focused on?

According to the wiring diagram you provided, the hot wire on your key switch (ignition switch) is the 12 gauge RED wire that connects to Terminal B. This RED wire should be hot all the time. The path of this wire is from:
1) the battery positive terminal
2) to a terminal likely on (or near) the starter
3) to one of the 30 amp fuses in your fuse block (the one with the 12 gauge RED wire going out ... not the 30 amp fuse with 14 gauge YELLOW wire going out)
4) to the key switch Terminal B.

Your objective if to find out why you don't have voltage at the key switch. I suggest start with your multimeter in the DC voltage setting and measure the voltage from each of the 4 points listed above to the NEGATIVE battery post.

Find out at what point the full battery voltage starts ... and where it ends.

If you complete the above 4 tests and find that you have full voltage to Terminal B of the key switch ... then you might have a bad ground ... if so, remove, clean and reinstall both your engine ground and frame ground. As a matter of trouble shooting ... I would suggest cleaning up your grounds as preventative maintenance anyway.

If you complete the above 4 tests and find that you lose your voltage somewhere along the way, remove, clean and replace the offending connection until you have input power to your key switch.

Let us know how you make out with these checks.

[MSDiesel1700]

Thanks for the next steps.

I changed the 30A fuses just to be sure I was good there. Then I did the 4 suggested tests.

From Negative battery post to:

1) the positive battery terminal=12.7 Volts

2) to a terminal likely on (or near) the starter=12.7 volts
There were three red wires connected at the same point here and on one of them I could see some corrosion where the wire joins the connector. That wire was labeled W126.

3) to the 30 amp fuse with the 12 gauge RED wire=12.7 volts

4) to the key switch Terminal B= I didn't have a wire long enough to reach from battery post to the key switch but from the key switch to frame ground still has 0 Volts.

So my next step is to see if can get that corrosion cleaned up on the smaller red wire at the starter. This a pretty tight space!

Am on the right track or are there an other suggestions?

[ThreeCW]

Originally Posted by MSDiesel1700

4) to the key switch Terminal B= I didn't have a wire long enough to reach from battery post to the key switch but from the key switch to frame ground still has 0 Volts.

So my next step is to see if can get that corrosion cleaned up on the smaller red wire at the starter. This a pretty tight space!

Am on the right track or are there an other suggestions?

To troubleshoot where your problem is occurring, you really need to get a longer jumper wire and measure from the Negative Battery Post to the Key Switch Terminal B. If this does indicate 12.7 volts, there could be a problem with your Frame Ground or our Engine Ground. As I suggested earlier, it would be a good idea from a preventative maintenance standpoint to redo both the engine ground and frame ground points ... remove, clean and reinstall ... and then test the voltage from the positive battery post to the frame and to the engine block ... both should be full battery voltage (12.7 volts).

If the voltage between the Negative Battery Post to the Key Switch Terminal B is 0 volts, then either the fuse / fuse connection is the problem (not sure if you got 12.7 volts to both sides of the fuse or not) or the 12 gauge RED wire between the 30 amp fuse to the Key Switch Terminal B had been compromised (cut, corroded or in some other way compromised).

From what your wiring diagram shows, if the wire between the 30 amp fuse to the Key Switch Terminal B had been compromised, you can safely disconnect / remove the old wire at both ends and replace it with a 12 Gauge RED wire (Wire marked 12. RED (W125) on your diagram). Wire # W125 is a direct link between the 30 Amp fuse and Key Switch Terminal B, so if the diagram you provided is correct for your cart, there should not be any problem in replace that single wire. Note that only safety feature that I could find relating to the starter circuit is the Neutral Switch located on the ground wire #W143.

It is a good idea to clean up the corrosion on the "smaller RED wire at the starter" but since you are seeing voltage past this point (i.e. at the 30 amp fuse), then the corrosion at the starter is not your primary problem.

[MSDiesel1700]

Good deal.
I started in on the frame ground today The bolt holding the three black wires actually broke as I was ratcheting it off to wire brush everything. I'm going to put a replacement bolt on, reconnect the three black wires that were grounded there and move on to the engine ground.

I do get 12.7 on both sides of the 30A fuse (I actually get exact same voltage on each side of each fuse)

Also, I now have a wire long enough to connect my multi meter from the battery to the key switch. So I will do that test tomorrow and report the results.

[MSDiesel1700]

I did check voltage between the battery negative terminal and the hot wire that plugs into my key switch. There was 0 volts.

The next few days here should be warmer and dry so I'm going to try replacing the 12g red wire. I'll report the results when done.

[MSDiesel1700]

I replaced my 12 gauge ignition wire and all is good again! I ran it from the same 30A fuse as the old wire, to the back of the ignition/key switch. (Note to anyone trying to remove the fuse holder: the little plastic rivets can be easily removed by pushing the center piece down and out of the bottom! Do not try prying them up!)
Unfortunately I could't pull the old wire out of the conduit so I ran the new one into a new piece of 1/4 inch conduit and zip tied it along the existing conduit route.
I would love to know where and why that wire was comprised. Bur for now I'll let it go and start some fun stuff, customizing!

Many thanks to @ThreeCW and @Cartmaster. Your advice and guidance was spot on and greatly appreciated.

I have some research to do first but stay tuned for my next post:
"Why does my radiator fan run whenever I turn the key to the on position instead of only running when the cart/coolant heats to a certain temp?"

[Cartmaster]

Lol. Your fan is always on! I will look at the diagram later to see how it operates. Glad you solved the ign problem. If you start a new thread for the fan, let me know in case I miss it.

Colin

[ThreeCW]

Glad that you got it working again. I am kind of surprised too about a sudden failure in that wire.

Had a quick look at the wiring diagram. Your wiring diagrams shows your fan relay is controlled by a fan thermostat (shown in the upper right hand corner of page 2). I would suspect the fan thermostat may be stuck or faulty ???