36volt dcs problems

[sleblanc]

Hey guys i am looking to help out my inlaws with their cart but first i need to figure out a few problems with it before i build it up for them. it is a 36volt system batterys were replaced about 8 months ago with new ones from the dealer. also had the solenoid replaced with the batterys. now the cart has been really sluggish and struggles to go up a slight grade. it also will be going and then just stop pulling power and roll to a stop. every now and then it will give a clank from the rear end. thinking maybe the problem is the gears and motor... what do you guys think. we also dont have the year on it.

[bigstik40]

I would suggest that you start by checking the status of your batteries by getting a total pack voltage and also individual battery voltages. Fully 100% charged should read 38.22 volts (6.37 v per ea bat). 50% charged (and not a good thing!!) would be 36.30 volts (6.05 v per ea bat.). Also, check for dirty or loose cable connections (this can also be checked by carefully feeling for "hot" connections after running a bit). Make sure the batteries have sufficient water (plates just covered), but don't top them up until after they are fully charged (distilled water only!). If batteries need charging, maybe you have charger problems. Check that. Report findings for further help. Good luck - RAY

[sleblanc]

what do you think is the cause of the motor or clunking in the rear end.?

[bigstik40]

Not too sure at this point. Hopefully, the experts will be chiming in shortly, but will need to know more about what cart you have (year, model, type of drive etc.) The battery tests I suggested are very easy to do and probably should be done first to eliminate that as a source of trouble, then further troubleshooting can be done to narrow down the actual problem. Try to ID the cart in the meantime. Does your cart have the forward/reverse switch on the dash next to the key switch or does it have a forward/reverse lever on the seat near your right leg?? Another fairly easy thing you can do would be to check to see if your brakes are dragging. (Could be caused by bound up brake cables or sticking brake release). Hope this helps a little. - RAY

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sleblanc

what do you think is the cause of the motor or clunking in the rear end.?

I'm no expert, but here's my 2 cents.

Carts with DCS controllers haven't been built in years, so there is probably some wear in the differential, so when the cart goes from pulling to coasting, you'll hear a clunk.

The clunk, in and of itself, probably isn't much of a problem since new ones clunk a little also. The problem is why the motor is shutting off or slowing down when it shouldn't be.
Sounds like the DCS controller is getting ready to fail completely.

Also, the stock cables are probably 6Ga., with open-ended crimp-on lugs, Are any of the getting Hot?
Among other things, bad cables would make it sluggish on hills.

This website will tell you the year and model of the cart if you enter the serial number and it also shows you where the serial number is located.
http://www.shopezgo.com/customer-ser...ialNumber.html

I'm not sure how you know it is a DCS controller, but if it is, it is hyper-sensitive to low battery voltage.
Hopefully the new batteries were fully charged before they were used and were broken -in properly so you are getting maximum storage capacity.
Also, the higher the average State of Charge the batteries are kept at, the longer they will last.

A complete set of 4Ga or larger high current cables (all 10 or so) and a 400A or larger aftermarket controller (and maybe a HD Solenoid) will probably take care of your in-laws cart motive issues.
Here are examples of the DCS upgrade packages available (About halfway down page)
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html
Other site-sponsors have similar components, I Just bought my cables from him and found them to be excellent quality.

[sleblanc]

Originally Posted by bigstik40

Not too sure at this point. Hopefully, the experts will be chiming in shortly, but will need to know more about what cart you have (year, model, type of drive etc.) The battery tests I suggested are very easy to do and probably should be done first to eliminate that as a source of trouble, then further troubleshooting can be done to narrow down the actual problem. Try to ID the cart in the meantime. Does your cart have the forward/reverse switch on the dash next to the key switch or does it have a forward/reverse lever on the seat near your right leg?? Another fairly easy thing you can do would be to check to see if your brakes are dragging. (Could be caused by bound up brake cables or sticking brake release). Hope this helps a little. - RAY

thanks Ray and jonnie i posted as a dcs but i am the noob so not sure my understanding was the shifter by the seat was the older dcs controller and the dash was the pds. i got the year model from my inlaws its a 1997 model. kinda hard trying to dx this thing when i am not by it i am out of town at work right now. so i am trying to get a plan of attack on it for when i get home. my father in law did the 4g wires on it when the new batteries went in and the solinoid i dont know if it was hd or not it was replaced by the cart shop i think. i been trying to get them to hunt down the recepts of when it was worked on so i can get more info on it.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sleblanc

............ i posted as a dcs which it is the shifter in the front the seat a Pds has the shifter on the dash i just dont know the year model on it..............

With F/R switch next to your driver's knee, it might be a series cart or a DCS.
Here's a chart to help you determine what it is.
If it has a Run/Tow switch on controller cover, it's a DCS.
If it doesn't, it's a series cart (Series wound motor) and a whole different ball game as far as figuring out why it isn't running right.

Also, here's a State of Charge chart for the batteries.

Incidentally, which battery charger is being used?

Merry Christmas.

[sleblanc]

has a power wise charger that came with it. my inlaws got it from my mother in laws dad he use to use it to go camping with so its kinda just trying to get all the information on it togethe. i didnt know about the series setup but my thinking with the sepex with the lever vs the switch was correct on dcs vs pds. So according to that the main thing to look for is the toggle switch to determine the diffence between series or dcs.... i will call someone at home and get them to look for me.

[sleblanc]

i am pretty sure it has the toggle switch when i looked.... thinking with the lift i should have the controller replaced and see whats all going on in the rear end.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by sleblanc

i am pretty sure it has the toggle switch when i looked.... thinking with the lift i should have the controller replaced and see whats all going on in the rear end.

If it is, or is going to be lifted and taller tires installed, the controller will need to be replaced no matter if it is series or sepex.
In fact, every cable and component the motor current goes through will have to be upgraded.
The 4Ga cables will be okay up to about a 700A controller, which is probably more than you'll go unless your looking for an earlier inheritance.

Taller tires effectively changes the rear end ratio giving you more speed and less torque, so if you have to replace the rear end, you might want to consider changing the ratio to regain some of the lost torque. Or maybe go the other way for even more speed and even less torque. Everything is a compromise.

Once you figure out what it is and what you want the end result to be, the only limitation is $$$$