36volt dcs problems

[sleblanc]

well for them i want to keep it mild so prolly just some 22in tires and decent speed doesnt need tons of torque they wont be off roading it more just for looks. the plan was just a 4-6in lift tires 12in wheels and radio setup hd springs and flip flop seat windsheild. they already have an accessories battery wired in. so to go with this you think change the controller, the wires to the motor and to the solenoid. i will go through the rear end when i take it down.

now the cart for me i am looking at building a 72 volt setup and 4x4 with 25s. but that will come later after my house is done.

[JohnnieB]

Going to 22" tires will up the speed about 20% and going to 4Ga cables throughout with a 400A controller and HD solenoid will regain some of the lost torque.
Probably accelerate and climb hills about the same, but have another 3 or 4 mph on top end.

Apparently you FIL replaced the 5 interconnecting cables on the battery pack an the 2 going under the controller cover.
That leaves 2 from under the controller cover going to A1 & A2 on motor and the short one between solenoid and controller.
The smaller F1 & F2 cables don't carry nearly as much current and are probably okay, but make sure terminals are clean and tight on both ends.

Note: Use a wrench to hold bottom nut on motor terminals. If studs turn the wiring inside motor gets messed up.

[sleblanc]

ok i will go through the wires when i get home and can really get to looking at it see what all he exactly replaced.

[sleblanc]

Well I was wrong looks like its a series motor no toggle switch on the controller cover. So what do I need to look at now ?

[sleblanc]

Battery's are 6.22volts each and 37.2 volts as a set. And they have been off the charger over night.

[JohnnieB]

In series cart (series wound motor) the same current (Total Current) flows through the armature and Stator windings, through the contacts of the F/R switch, through the Solenoid contacts and every heavy cable in it.

To give you a better picture of what I'm saying, attached is a generic schematic of a series cart showing the high current path only. The controller may or may not be the same as the one in your cart, but everything is the same electrically. (Need the year and model to find the right manual)

Instead of the 10 cables the DCS and PDS carts have, a series cart has 13 or 14 and all of the carry total motor current all the time the cart is moving except the A2-A2 cable, if it exists. (dotted line on schematic)

If the battery pack is only 37.2V (about 75% SoC) after being charged and rested for a few hours, and all 6 batteries are within 0.1V of each other, something might very well be wrong with your charger.
Do you have a model name or model number for it? (There are several flavors of Powerwise chargers and the controls don't all work exactly the same)
If you can't find a name or number, A picture of the faceplate would work.

Plug the charger back into the cart, run it through another charge cycle and try to measure battery voltage when the charger turns off. If it is an automatic charger, it should be in the 44V-46V range.

If it is a manual charger with timer, it might be something as simple as the batteries aren't not being allowed to charge long enough.

Low batteries will cause the sluggish symptoms you originally posted, but bad contacts in the F/R switch and/or Solenoid will also.

Is there anything getting hot? Heat indicates resistance and for optimum performance we want to eliminate the resistance in the motor current loop.

[sleblanc]

nah not hot it had been off charge over night they had used it for a little while and parked it. i will be getting it to my house in a couple weeks when i get some time to work on it.