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Old 08-16-2012, 05:37 PM   #11
felber61
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Default Re: ezgo marathon overheating

I would however like to point out that since my boys race two stroke dirtbikes 20 weekends a year for 5 years now and I'm the only mechanic they use that the oil in the bottom of these motors your changing is for the clutch. It has nothing to do with the motor at all. I'm not familiar with snowmobiles though.


I'd also like to point out that if you want these golf cart gurus to help you argueing with them isn't the best approach....Just sayin
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:42 PM   #12
jcsk8tr
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Default Re: ezgo marathon overheating

Quote:
Originally Posted by felber61 View Post
I'm not sure on the oil that you found but if I had to guess I would say that you may be using fuel with ethanol in it for your cart and maybe since ethanol fuel is know to burn hotter than fuel without it I'm going to say that its actually a vapor lock situation with the carberator. I maybe wrong but these are finicky machines and any change from what they were designed for in the 80's will make them act different.
u said something about the car well the carb on mmine i believe is the wrong one and the air filter isnt on either its just a lawnmower air filter(push mower) zip tied on it runs fine but could this be why its overheating
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Old 08-16-2012, 05:43 PM   #13
jcsk8tr
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Default Re: ezgo marathon overheating

and at the gas pump i choose regular
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:45 PM   #14
pachanga90
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Default Re: ezgo marathon overheating

The Dirt-Bike setup has oil in the trans/primary-case.There isn't any oil normally in the crankcase.If you split the cases on a dirt-bike type engine,you will see a separating area around the crankshaft area.The open filter will lean it out,but still shouldn't cause it to overheat.Try mixing 1-1/2oz.per gal. with Super-Unleaded(that's all I ran with my 2pg),see if that cures it.I have seen the wrist-pins bind,the needle-bearings may be tightening up.If the richer fuel-mix doesn't cure it,pull the head and cylinder and check the rod-bearings for tightness at the crank-pin and wrist-pin.A slight oil-residue is ok in the lower-end when you look in there,any more points to trouble.I would recommend crank-seals,and hone the cylinder and fresh-rings if the bore is decent.If its' scored or has a thick ridge at the top,either over-bore it or buy a cylinder-kit.You can buy a complete overhaul kit that will supply everything new for under $300.If you have any concerns or questions,post them or PM me.I've done alot with these and other motors,and would be glad to help.I'm only an Hour East of Buffalo.Good Luck.
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