Ezgo TXT, was charging, replaced receptacle and now will not charge

[LPenwell]

Looking for help or suggestions before I go insane. I recently switched the plastic charger receptacle housing because the old one was cracked. Before I did anything, it would charge fine. Now, after I switched the housing and plug in the charger, nothing happens. I did not change any of the wires when doing this. I just took the three screws out of the housing, keeping the wires connected and placed them in the new housing. I have checked to make sure all are connected, red to micro switch, White to battery pack positive, black to battery pack negative. I am at a loss not knowing what else to check. I'm quite certain the charger itself is fine since it worked prior to me working on receptacle. Any help would be appreciated, I'm losing my mind thinking something so simple shouldn't give me problems.
Thanks

[JohnnieB]

The auxiliary contact in the charger plug has to touch the outside of the negative terminal in the receptacle to turn on charger. The new housing might have shifted the geometry a bit and some adjusting is needed.

Negative terminal is circled in attached picture and auxiliary contact is item #36 on attached drawing.

On the other hand, if the positive and negative terminals in the receptacle got swapped, the fuse in the charger output circuit is blown.

[LPenwell]

Thanks for your response. What you said about the auxiliary wire touching he negative terminal all appears to be fine. I've removed the covers from both the plug and the receptacle and everything appears to be doing as you said. However, looking at the photo of the receptacle that you posted, mine looks a little different. On mine, the red wire just connects with the white wire and goes to the side and out of the receptacle. In your picture, it looks to go up and connect to a white wire, then back down out the bottom?

[LPenwell]

Here is a photo of it with the cover off.

[JohnnieB]

Sounds like the reed switch is bypassed in your cart. The small red wire has to have battery pack voltage on it for cart to run, but has no effect on the battery charging process.

Measure the voltage between the + and - terminals from the front. Should be same as battery pack voltage.

IF you do have pack voltage there, open the charger and measure the voltage between the red and black wires attached to the control board. Should be same as battery pack voltage and has to be above 30V.

Charger does not have to be plugged into AC power, but has to be plugged into cart.

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added - just saw the picture you posted, your reed switch is bypassed.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by LPenwell

Here is a photo of it with the cover off.

I see the problem.

Remove the insulator sleeve from the negative terminal so the auxiliary contact can make electrical contact with the outside of it.

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Added:

You are not the first one to do that. See attached picture.

If you don't mind, I'm going to add the picture you posted to my stash, it is much clearer than the one I have.

[LPenwell]

I removed the app insulator sleeves and replaced the covers to charging plug and receptacle. Still nothing. Used a multimeter on the front of the receptacle and got a reading of 37.08 volts.
I have a feeling this is a dumb question, but is there a minimum voltage that is required for the charger to work? In other words, do the batteries need to be run down to a certain level before they will recharge again? I was surprised to see 37 volts since I haven't charged in a few weeks ( only driven maybe 15 minutes total over this time.)

[LPenwell]

I forgot to tell you to please feel free to use my picture.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by LPenwell

1. I removed the app insulator sleeves and replaced the covers to charging plug and receptacle. Still nothing. Used a multimeter on the front of the receptacle and got a reading of 37.08 volts.

2. I have a feeling this is a dumb question, but is there a minimum voltage that is required for the charger to work?

3. In other words, do the batteries need to be run down to a certain level before they will recharge again?

4. I was surprised to see 37 volts since I haven't charged in a few weeks ( only driven maybe 15 minutes total over this time.)

1. The auxiliary probably has been compressed by having been bent to get over the insulator sleeve. Bend it out some with a thin screwdriver or knife tip.

2. Yes. The battery pack has to be about 30V or higher for the charger to turn on.

3. No. The batteries can be recharged with little, if any, discharge. Also, unlike NiCd batteries, Lead-Acid batteries have no memory issues and do not need to be completely discharged periodically.

4. In and of themselves, deep-cycle lead-acid batteries self-discharge at about 1% SoC per day. The controller also draws a few milliamps keeping its filter capacitors charged. Plus there are parasitic discharge sources.

Most importantly, the batteries ought to be recharged after each use. If possible and practical, they should never sit more than a week without being given a booster charge. If the cart will sit for weeks or months unattended, float charging should be used to keep the batteries at 100% SoC.

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Thanks for permission to use your picture.

If possible, can you repeat the shot, showing the insulator sleeve remove and the auxiliary contact touching the outside of the negative terminal.

[LPenwell]

Took out the auxiliary and bent it back, made sure it is in contact with negative terminal. Still nothing. I'm going to take my charger to a cart shop in town to make sure it is still working properly so I can maybe rule that out completely.

Here is another picture with the sleeves removed.