Ezgo series wiring problems

[cgtech]

No reason to mess with the ITS right now, that's not your problem. Also, solenoid engagement when key is turned on is not correct.

[Thimmesch1]

Nuke /red and green go where they are supposed to,so I loosened the diode and it fell apart.
now it clicks when its supposed to but no throttle.so Jonnie was most likely right about the shorted diode.now im trying to get the right reading from the ITS. I tested between the black and white throttle wires at the top of the controller and it comes back 14.4(yesterday it moved down to 12.7 at WOT now with the broken diode it does not move at all) .trobleshooting guide referred that it is most likely a broken wire?...in the throttle circuit? will it work without the diode? thanks you guys are awsome

[Thimmesch1]

Originally Posted by cgtech

No reason to mess with the ITS right now, that's not your problem. Also, solenoid engagement when key is turned on is not correct.

I have the peddle switch jumped until the new one shows up.
jonnie was right,main problem was the Diode was shorted out and the ITS had a bad connection.
It now drives fine in Forward but no reverse.
Thanks

[Thimmesch1]

for the no reverse problem,i have tracked pack voltage through both forward and through the reverse switch, what do I test next? when I bought it there was a reed switch included in a box of parts, but bypassed.What are the Negitives of not having the reed switch connected? Thanks

[orangeman6]

The reed switch just keeps you from driving away with the cart still plugged into the charger. If you think you might not notice it , you can be in the habit of looping the cord through the steering wheel.

Assuming you have mechanical, rotary f/r switch? It can get out of adjustment and/or the copper contacts in there can get buggered up. Wait for one of the experts to get back, but I think you can swap the cables at 3 and 9 o’clock.

[JohnnieB]

If a series drive cart like you have goes in one direction, but not the other, and the solenoid clicks in both directions, the problem is in the high current contacts in the F/R switch assembly are not making contact for the direction the cart does not run in.

If the solenoid does not click when F/R is in the direction the cart does not run in, the problem is most likely to be the lever on the run microswitch is not dropping into the detent on the rotating cam for that direction.

[Thimmesch1]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

If a series drive cart like you have goes in one direction, but not the other, and the solenoid clicks in both directions, the problem is in the high current contacts in the F/R switch assembly are not making contact for the direction the cart does not run in.

If the solenoid does not click when F/R is in the direction the cart does not run in, the problem is most likely to be the lever on the run microswitch is not dropping into the detent on the rotating cam for that direction.

It does click when putting it in reverse, so i cleaned the contacts and still nothing. Looking at the wiring diagram that you sent me thith the low voltage highlighted.,it looks like it is wired wrong. Do the pictures make sence of why it would run only in forward? With brand new batteries im a little hesitant to be swapping the high amp lines around.
The hand drawn diagram is the way the cart is currently wired. Thanks
Thanks

[JohnnieB]

Each of the 4 studs ought to have a cable on it and you have a three terminal (B-, M- & B+) controller, each of the 4 studs should only have one cable on it.

Wire it as shown in the attached schematic.

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The stud without a cable attached, looks like it has been overheated, so the stationary contact might be sunken into the plastic and not making contact with the moveable contact. Doubling up the cable on the next stud bypasses the probably bad contact, but eliminates one of the two directions of travel.


A new F/R switch assemble is probably needed.

[PingEye3]

What JohnnieB said.... I just replaced a switch today that had a burned contact that looked very much like yours only, it was connected correctly. It appears that the B+ is connected directly to the S1 or S2 (???) terminal on the F/R sw. The B+ should normally be connected to the bottom (burned out) terminal. Which is why someone put this fix on the large contacts of the switch to get it to move forward. Because the B+ cannot now be switched between the S terminals, you have no reverse. IMHO

From the pictures of the wiring everything else looked good to me.

You need a new F/R switch or a reversing contactor and FNR switch kit from Scotty B.

[Thimmesch1]

Going to order new f/r switch from scotty. Pictures show current wiring on right and wiring Johnnie posted on the left.(thanks,I love the way Johnnie highlights circuts..makes it easier to understand)
So when it gets here i need to swap the s1&s2 cables and put the B + on the bottom lug which is labeled (a ) in wiring diagram? sorry for the dumb questions (just new to electric and nervous with all this amperage)
There are no markings on my board.
Thanks again