So we’re riding along on the 2003 PDS...

[Timberwolflt]

So we’re riding along on the 2003 PDS... everything working fine. We stop to reverse and turn around and switch to reverse... no click from the solenoid...won’t go... back to forward... won’t go but now the reverse buzzer won’t shut off and we smell something burning... solenoid hot to the touch... motor hot to the touch... controller warm to the touch
Battery pack at 38.1... no wires hot or melted... solenoid no longer clicks

Shoot a guess.... I haven’t started hunting the problem yet... towed it home and parked it

[DaveTM]

I'd test the solenoid first.....rule out if it stuck or not.

[scottyb]

Did you put the Run/Tow switch in TOW before towing the cart home?

If yes you may have a controller failure. Do you have big tires on the cart?
If no, you may have a motor and controller failure.

See sepex motor test attached

[Timberwolflt]

I did put the R/T in tow position but I’m not sure it was having any effect at that point but the motor didn’t try to slow the cart any

[Timberwolflt]

... stock tires... it was running normal and strong

[Timberwolflt]

Motor’s good.... solenoid is good... J1 connector looks a bit charred... J2 p1 next to it looks a bit smoked

I’m pretty sure we know now where the problem lies... the question is, what could have caused it because that was a brand new stock controller and everything was functioning as it should except the J2 performance option... the two plug-ins seemed to have zero effect on performance and I’ve been in communication with BU trying to exchange it because it came out of the box with the issue... seemed to be defective from jump... but otherwise functioned as it should

If BU doesn’t work with me, I just tossed a $400 bill in the trash... I definitely need to make sure that it doesn’t happen again so I gotta know what caused it now. Everything was in place and functioning properly except J2

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by Timberwolflt

Motor’s good.... solenoid is good... J1 connector looks a bit charred... J2 p1 next to it looks a bit smoked

I’m pretty sure we know now where the problem lies... the question is, what could have caused it because that was a brand new stock controller and everything was functioning as it should except the J2 performance option... the two plug-ins seemed to have zero effect on performance and I’ve been in communication with BU trying to exchange it because it came out of the box with the issue... seemed to be defective from jump... but otherwise functioned as it should

If BU doesn’t work with me, I just tossed a $400 bill in the trash... I definitely need to make sure that it doesn’t happen again so I gotta know what caused it now. Everything was in place and functioning properly except J2

Are you using a stock controller for added passengers off road riding?
If yes, you may need to upgrade the controller.
I hate to see this when somebody pays $400 for a stock type controller when $500 would have bought an Alltrax 400 amp control with more torque, more speed, a 2 yr no questions warranty, and a 200 amp solenoid

[Timberwolflt]

We were actually on the road, just the 2 of us

I just started building this cart... initially for an old cheap Aunt... Didn’t take long to surpass what she was willing to spend so now I’m building it for myself. Haven’t even gotten to the rear seat yet

I’m just really concerned that something took out the controller without any warning signs. If it wasn’t defective from the factory... which I know it was at least as far as the performance port was concerned... I need to make sure it doesn’t happen to the next one

So far... It’s cost me approximately $500 per mile to drive... all flat paved road with 1 or 2 people... That don’t really work for me

[Timberwolflt]

I did test the motor per your diagram... seemed to be fine
The motor and the accelerator are the only components that aren’t brand new... Just shouldn’t have happened

[Timberwolflt]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Are you using a stock controller for added passengers off road riding?
If yes, you may need to upgrade the controller.
I hate to see this when somebody pays $400 for a stock type controller when $500 would have bought an Alltrax 400 amp control with more torque, more speed, a 2 yr no questions warranty, and a 200 amp solenoid

I need to go this route... what, exactly, do I need to go to 400/200 alltrax... I plain can’t afford to keep throwing new parts at this cart and still not have a dependable cart

I’m perfectly happy with stock tires and suspension. All I do is putter around the farm and up and down mostly flat roads occasionally. I am going to put a rear seat on it if I ever get it to a point that it’s dependable.

Just point me to the right parts