hei ignition conv. for twin cylinder 4 cycle workhorse

[brediaj]

Have found numerous explanations and great diagrams for the hei ignition conversion for a single cylinder 2 cycle engine but nothing for a twin cylinder 4 stroke robin engine like mine Can someone qualified please post a wiring diagram for the engine with 2 spark plugs The one that member RonMan posted was excellent even had photos but was for a single cylinder I guess my question also is can I use the ignition module for a 1977 Nova like he did but what coil do I use or how do I wire the one with a single plug wire where mine has two plugs do I use the original pulsar coil wired to the igniter just a bit confused and would greatly appreciate a wiring diagram and possibly a parts list and photos I know it's a lot to ask but have searched extensively for this info with no avail Please help I'm been fighting this Crank no spark bug for way too long and want to try something new as I have replaced every component in the ignition system including new battery new igniter new pulsar coil new ignition coil new voltage regulator and of course new solenoid still no spark WTF not to mention have cleaned all grounds multiple times. Thanks so much Please help Brediaj the cart is a 2001 workhorse 350 with a robin engine.

[CP241]

As far as I am aware, nobody has been successful in getting a HEI to work in a 2 cylinder. This is probably why you’re not finding information on it.

I’d find an oem ignitor is yours has failed.

[JPonLKN]

Has this cart ever run for you? I see you had a post for similar cart way back in 2013. What occurred or how did it become a non-running machine? Just quit one day, or did you acquire it non-running?

Maybe post some photos so we can see how you have the ignitor, and coil wired. It is often something simple that simply gets overlooked that just takes another set of eyes to see. A buddy of mine had a cart, solenoid went bad, and his mechanic replaced it. These two have worked on 100's of the same type cart, couldn't figure out why this thing wouldn't start and kept blowing fuses. Apparently, someone replaced a red wire with a black wire at some point, and the mechanic dropped the "hot" black wire on the ground side of the solenoid. Everytime you try to start, blow a fuse. He asked me to look at it, I traced all the wires at the ignitor and solenoid to their start points with a Volt/Ohm meter and found it.

In your case, it turns over, so microswitches, and power circuit from batter through the pedal switch, ignition switch, and solenoid are good. You can check resistance on primary and secondary of the coil, and resistance of the pulsar coil. If those are good, the issue is either a bad ignitor, or a connector. Do you know anybody with a pre-MCI workhorse or TXT? You could plug in a known good ignitor to see if that is the issue. Unfortunately, there are no known tests for them. And I would look very closely at those pin connectors. They look like they should be good, but a slightly loose pin in the plastic housing won't make a good connection when plugged in.

Where are you located? Any golf cart junk yards in the area? I'd find a junk gas EZGO and grab an ignitor from it before I buy the aftermarket stuff that doesn't work. They are out there, just gotta go looking for them.

[Acidrain]

I had no problem with it working on my MCI Robin. That is until I had ground problems.
It turns out most ignition problems on these are poor ground connection related. I would start there (assuming you have all your original parts on hand).
Take the ground cables/wires off, sand any corrosion off (both the eye connector and frame/motor mounting areas). Use a battery wire brush and clean those as well. Make sure you have a good fully charged battery. Spray the in-line electrical connections with a cleaner, reassemble and try it.
To answer your question, the GM HEI module takes the place of the factory ignitor. The wiring diagram in the HEI conversion post shows the wiring diagram.
The Pulsar (under the fan) rarely fails and there is no test for it.
The coils do fail, and there are tests depending on pre- MCI or MCI (MCI has one exhaust coming out of the head).

[JPonLKN]

Originally Posted by Acidrain

I had no problem with it working on my MCI Robin. That is until I had ground problems.
It turns out most ignition problems on these are poor ground connection related. I would start there (assuming you have all your original parts on hand).
Take the ground cables/wires off, sand any corrosion off (both the eye connector and frame/motor mounting areas). Use a battery wire brush and clean those as well. Make sure you have a good fully charged battery. Spray the in-line electrical connections with a cleaner, reassemble and try it.
To answer your question, the GM HEI module takes the place of the factory ignitor. The wiring diagram in the HEI conversion post shows the wiring diagram.
The Pulsar (under the fan) rarely fails and there is no test for it.
The coils do fail, and there are tests depending on pre- MCI or MCI (MCI has one exhaust coming out of the head).

the Pulsar can be tested. I think somewhere around 20 Ohms resistance, give or take a decimal place or two between the two leads and it is good. It is only the ignitor that can't be tested.

[Acidrain]

Originally Posted by JPonLKN

the Pulsar can be tested. I think somewhere around 20 Ohms resistance, give or take a decimal place or two between the two leads and it is good. It is only the ignitor that can't be tested.

Yep, my bad...
I meant to say the ignitor cannot be tested. There are tests for both the pulsar and the ignition coil.

[brediaj]

Thank You for your quick advice JPonKN and all other members Yes the cart actually ran when I first acquired it ran for a good 2 years then started this no spark issue later. It has been sitting ever since. I will work on getting some photos to you give me a little time. The only thing I didn't mention was that the solenoid I bought was for an auto and seems to work fine but the only difference is that one of the two small terminals is where I have the hot from the micro switch from pedal as shown in factory diagram but the other small terminal which the factory diagram shows where the grounds should be connected I have nothing connected due to the fact it doesn't seem to work as a ground so now I just connected my ground wires directly to frame I guess this certain solenoid gets it ground by directly bolting it to a clean place on the cart like I have it I know I probably have You completely lost on this one but I will work on the photos as you requested I Thank you greatly for your help on this. But back to my original post one member says he's never seen an hei conversion work on a twin cylinder and another says it can be done I'm a bit confused but if it can be done would like to see diagrams thank you all

[JPonLKN]

Understood on the HEI conversion diagram. Never done it, can't help with it other than I have seen countless threads, as I am sure you have read through them where folks say they had an Automotive HEI working, and then it doesn't, and others talk about "their buddy's cart" that has the HEI. I understand Fast Fred, who did superchargers for these, and who has since passed away, used an automotive HEI, but he was modifying other stuff including timing. I read somewhere on EZGO documentation that the change from pre-MCI to MCI included some changes to the automatically adjustable timing through the ignitor that helped them burn fuel more efficiently. We need a wiring diagram of the old ignitor to tell how it works, and if there is an HEI that works the same, or if you need to advance or retard timing at the keyway.

As for your solenoid, automotive solenoids don't usually work for very long...they need to be constant duty. A car solenoid only gets 12v signal when the key is in the start position, where a cart gets it anytime the key is on and the pedal is depressed. Sounds like the coil wire or ignition signal wire is grounding properly or it wouldn't pull in the contactor and operate the starter/generator. I wouldn't trust the battery tray as the ground location as it is painted steel bolted into the painted frame. Not a lot of clean contact between the two. While your contact point might be bare metal, the contact points for the tray are not. For Chits and Giggles, run a ground wire from your common ground point under the solenoid directly to the battery negative terminal, and make sure your ignitor and voltage regulator black wires are connected there. If you do get spark, you will need a new solenoid very soon.

[JPonLKN]

As a side note, I went back to look at the only cart that I know of that truly ran off an HEI conversion, the supercharged TXT. He was running an MSD ignition box and MSD GM type coil. The standard Delco type GM HEI probably doesn't have enough "dwell", at higher RPM where the MSD box extends the dwell by sending multiple pulse for a longer duration of rotation, ultimately longer charge for the coil and longer time for the spark in the cylinder, if I understand a little of what I read. They run good at idle speed, but at 2500 rpm the dwell on the GM HEI changes, but likely not in sync with the firing timing of these Robbin motors and they spit, puke, chug and backfire. I'm not sure, but the MSD box may be programable with regard to dwell. They can also be set with a rev limiter like the original ignitor, but higher if needed, which is why Fred went with it to begin with. Problem is expense. I did find OEM ignitors for sale online with a simple search for around $100, and $190. Much less than an MSD box and coil. Good luck with it and let us know how it works out for you.

[brediaj]

I want to thank JPonLKN for reaching out and doing research on my no spark issue. They didn't call Fast Fred that name for nothing my gosh what he did on the hei conversion was enough to spin my brain at 2500 rpms I am gonna do what you suggested go back clean all the grounds and basically start over because all that Fred did MSD ignition dwell in sync multiple pulse idle speed I am completely lost and can barely understand the very basics EZ GO intended that has worked for years so for crying out loud why should I change it thanks for your time as I have just ordered a new solenoid and will get back to you soon THANKS to all especially JPon