1992 Gas Ezgo Driven Clutch

[Shudson_01]

I have a 1992 Marathon gas cart that the Driven/secondary clutch stuck. After a few hours, I manage to get the driven clutch apart. The only problem was I did not mark the clutch and I don't know where the spring was located? It has three holes the spring can go in. I read that these hose are for torque on the clutch. I also read that the spring has to be wound. Does any one have any info on how to put a driven back together. Thank you for adding me the Forum.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Shudson_01

I have a 1992 Marathon gas cart that the Driven/secondary clutch stuck. After a few hours, I manage to get the driven clutch apart. The only problem was I did not mark the clutch and I don't know where the spring was located? It has three holes the spring can go in. I read that these hose are for torque on the clutch. I also read that the spring has to be wound. Does any one have any info on how to put a driven back together. Thank you for adding me the Forum.

Middle hole on the spring
I clock mine at 120 degrees
I made a tool to do it with that fits in my vise. I guess if you had help it could be done but the tool is much better. You want to twist it to the right 120 degrees while pressing down to catch splines and then put lock in. You see why that tool is needed.
Are the ramp buttons worn out ?

[Shudson_01]

Trig123 I have a press that I can use. When you say 120 degrees is that like a 1/4 or 1/2 turn not sure what you mean when you say 120 degrees? Also, is that clockwise or counterclockwise. Would you have a picture you can post of the tool you made. Thank you.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Shudson_01

Trig123 I have a press that I can use. When you say 120 degrees is that like a 1/4 or 1/2 turn not sure what you mean when you say 120 degrees? Also, is that clockwise or counterclockwise. Would you have a picture you can post of the tool you made. Thank you.

You turn it clockwise. Just think its a circle which is 360 degrees . Half of that is 180. So 90 would be 1/4th.

You don't have to be exact but somewhere between 1/4th and 1/2 should be close to what I mentioned. Some actually clock them to 140. I just always estimate.

You could actually print out a circle with degrees to use and place it over the clutch. I got one of those also.
.
I cut a 4 inch OD piece of pipe 1 and 1/8th long which will fit perfect as I show in picture. Pipe is about 3 and 9/16th on the inside .

The other pipe I used was 3 inches wide and 1 and 1/2 high. Notches I ground to fit over the 6 ribs on other side of clutch. I welded the all thread to this this piece of pipe. I used a piece of angle iron and welded it to the 3 inch piece of pipe so I could clamp it in my vise. Works pretty good and won't get you hurt when pulling apart and putting back together.

I used a 3/4th inch all thread but you could use smaller. Its just what I had in the shop.

As you can see the tab I welded ( 1x1 inch ) works to hold it down where you can remove the lock and put it back when rebuilt. Mine is probably an overkill but I used what I could find laying around in the shop. Need me to measure more I can but you can see how I did it.

No telling how many of these I have rebuilt. Hope this helps. Tom

[JPonLKN]

Hey Trig,
I have a few driven clutches that need rebuilt. Screw heads broke off and can't get the screws out, and the ramps are buggered up from the screws after the buttons disintegrated. Are they rebuildable in that condition, or just time to trash?

[Shudson_01]

Awesome! Thank you for the info and pictures. I hope to have the parts by the weekend. I will let know how it goes.

[cart around]

Weld a nut to the broken screws. They will come right out. Works great for steel screws stuck in aluminum.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by JPonLKN

Hey Trig,
I have a few driven clutches that need rebuilt. Screw heads broke off and can't get the screws out, and the ramps are buggered up from the screws after the buttons disintegrated. Are they rebuildable in that condition, or just time to trash?

Can you upload a picture of it JPonLKN ? You know I can't trash anything so I do think there is a way .
cart arounds trick might work.
Show us a close up of it.

[trig123]

Originally Posted by Shudson_01

Awesome! Thank you for the info and pictures. I hope to have the parts by the weekend. I will let know how it goes.

I forgot to mention another important step. Forgive me as father time has worked on me

If you do make a tool like I showed you then mount tool in vise and compress spring by tightening that nut on all thread. Use a good pair of snap right pliers to remove lock and back off nut slow and easy.

If its stuck then never completely remove the nut until its free from splines. Tap with hammer to break it free with maybe some good penetrating oil.

Many I have taken apart have been stuck so again be careful. You will know when it frees up from those splines if it is stuck and leaving the nut on the all thread will save you from getting hit in head lol

Putting it back you do this.
Take a large screwdriver, bar or anything that you can stick in the drilled hole of the tool ( red line showing where I drilled it on mine ) I also am showing in this picture on the tool and that's how you clock it. Use two c-clamps to hold it on each side, red line shows about where to clamp it . I think you will get the idea how to do this .

Start turning the center piece with whatever you can put in hole and safely turn clockwise making sure where you put c-clamps on outside part of clutch top and bottom don't move. I am terrible explaining things so ask if you are not sure

Once you get to close to the 120 degree mark then you tighten the nut on threaded rod and make sure you are on the splines.

Don't forget to put your lock in place before you start putting it back together.

Once you tighten the nut on tool it will catch the splines if lined up and then using lock ring pliers put that lock in and release tension by backing off nut.

Just be careful because if its not locked it can fly up and hit you square in the face Don't ask me how I know that lol


The reason for clamping it is that you got it make sure it don't move when you turn the center piece with bar or screwdriver. This tool I made just makes it so easy to clock but I am sure others had did this without a tool but I couldn't never do it by myself.

It can be done without help if you have a vise but you do need to use both hands.

Good luck and be careful. Post back how it goes. Tom

[JPonLKN]

Originally Posted by trig123

Can you upload a picture of it JPonLKN ? You know I can't trash anything so I do think there is a way .
cart arounds trick might work.
Show us a close up of it.

I'll start a new thread on it in a few days...buried in this thing called work today and tomorrow, and it isn't somewhere I can get to easily right now. I actually have a couple of them, the ramps were gouged out by the broken screws, and one has some serious wear on the face that the belt rides on. As for the screws, this was discussed previously, and I don't have a mig welder yet....just stick. Hard to get the stick to the screw before it arks on the nut.