G1 Starter/Generator

[kantuckian]

Good to know

[ewbldavis]

FYI Bigstick - installed new regulator this weekend. New regulator indeed fixed the issue!

Thanks!

[bigstik40]

Thanks for the feedback - glad it is fixed fer ya . RAY

[Jeff H]

Just to hop in on this thread since I'm having the same issue with my G1, If I do a full field test, do I just short the green and black wire at the voltage regulator and then check the voltage back at the battery? Is that how it works?

I was scratching my head over the weekend with a volt meter. both the red and green wires from the generator would read around 12ish volts (old analog meter) and I had about 12 at the battery too. That was after running for a while so the battery wasn't at full charge.

[bigstik40]

Originally Posted by Jeff H

Just to hop in on this thread since I'm having the same issue with my G1, If I do a full field test, do I just short the green and black wire at the voltage regulator and then check the voltage back at the battery? Is that how it works?

That's correct. If generator is good, volts at battery should be 14 volts plus (running) while the green is shorted to the black. Keep the test as short as possible. Remember, your older regulator can be adjusted for proper voltage output and also the contacts can be filed if not burned up.

I was scratching my head over the weekend with a volt meter. both the red and green wires from the generator would read around 12ish volts (old analog meter) and I had about 12 at the battery too. That was after running for a while so the battery wasn't at full charge.

When cranking and running, the red wire should have 12 volts (battery +) on it full time, the green wire will be 12 volts (battery +) when regulator contacts are open and 0 volts when regulator contacts are closed. You will get a voltage reading on the green wire because the contacts will be vibrating (opening and closing) while running.

Good luck - RAY

PS - Here is a copy of the post re: "How it works" -
What we are doing when applying full field is shorting the green wire to ground to apply full field current (full time). This does cause the battery voltage to go to 15-16 volts so should not be done for an extended time (just long enough to get a voltage reading). If you do get the high 15-16 volts at the battery with full field, you can be pretty sure that the st/gen is ok and the regulator might be the problem.

You have an older mechanical regulator which has contact points that sometime get pitted and stop conducting. (They sometimes can be cleaned up with a file). This regulator is also adjustable for proper voltage output.

[ewbldavis]

Jeff,

I suggest looking on EBay and purchasing the regulator. I got mine for $33 with free shipping. I also did the field test, and results pointed to voltage regulator. Given the age of these carts, it is worth the $33 for a new regulator, and you will know that component is good to go for a while.

[stevebussard]

I'm late to the party here, but so far, this is the most relevant thread I've found. I just haven't found anyone that has the same results as me.

I just picked up an 82 G1, and am struggling with a no charge issue. The battery is weak, but does take a full charge, and will start and run the cart (there are no accessories). The previous owner said the SG was fairly recently replaced (last year or so), and the cart had been charging until recently. A cheap non-adjustable VR had been installed since the cart stopped charging, but did not fix the problem.

I have replaced the cheapo VR, with the factory one, and I still am not getting a charge. The battery reads 12.8V when idle, and it drops to about 11.4V when running WOT. I checked the voltage from the green wire on the SG, grounding to the battery negative. I believe this is technically the same as the "full field test" described here, but I also did the full field test, and both results were 9.6V.

So..... does this mean I am the unicorn here, and I actually have a bad SG? Cart turns over well, if that is any type of indicator.

[mikeasis]

the after market starter generators are crap at best, we don't have many options though unless you can find a NOS or working stock one. I always try to tell folks to have their stockers rebuilt.

[stevebussard]

Originally Posted by mikeasis

the after market starter generators are crap at best, we don't have many options though unless you can find a NOS or working stock one. I always try to tell folks to have their stockers rebuilt.

So my SG is most likely the issue? I have to assume the SG that was installed on the cart is aftermarket. What is it that actually causes it to stop charging? I only ask, because I can get a factory armature and brush housing from golfcartking.com for about $200. Unfortunately they are sold out of the complete factory SG's. If the housing of the aftermarket unit is still the same, I could just replace the guts, if that would actually fix my problem. Thoughts?

[mikeasis]

Originally Posted by stevebussard

So my SG is most likely the issue? I have to assume the SG that was installed on the cart is aftermarket. What is it that actually causes it to stop charging? I only ask, because I can get a factory armature and brush housing from golfcartking.com for about $200. Unfortunately they are sold out of the complete factory SG's. If the housing of the aftermarket unit is still the same, I could just replace the guts, if that would actually fix my problem. Thoughts?

Possibly.
First things first. Have that battery load tested not just put on a charger. Inspect , clean or replace cables going from starter gen to battery and starter gen to solenoids. These are steel and corrode which cause voltage drop, pretty common on these old carts. I don't think the OE parts would fit the aftermarket unit, they are very cheaply made and not exact copies as they are intended to fit various model carts. post some pics of your starter/generator.