04-20-2014, 09:43 AM | #11 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 9,329
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Re: F/R differences
Does it look like the picture in the stickies #11 that I posted?
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04-20-2014, 09:51 AM | #12 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 28
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Re: F/R differences
Ya, I think so...one wire from the controller went to the F/R switch (side terminal, I believe) the other wires, I just followed the old ones. Four off the motor... 1 went to the positive battery, two had smaller ends and screwed into the F/R and one was bolted onto the F/R. I think I did it right. I just followed one wire at a time and matched lengths. Will it do any damage if I didn't? Im not real good at reading schematics but it appears that the old wires were original as they were color coded and matched the schematic you posted. I guess the proof will be in the pudding when I put the new batts in and try to charge them.. thanks everyone for all the help. It truly is appreciated.
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04-20-2014, 10:46 AM | #13 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Homer, NY
Posts: 216
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Re: F/R differences
Quote:
The good news: using an older, 36v switch is sort of a "poor man's" HD switch for the 48v carts. The button contacts are larger, better materials. Does require some modifications to make it work (I had to make buss bars for mine). The bad news: from that photo it LOOKS like that's one of the crappy Nivel copies of the real Club Car 36v switch. The photos aren't good enough to be sure. The Nivel 693 switch I bought from a site sponsor was junk. Here's a link to the problems I had with the Nivel, and the correct part number for the OEM Club Car 36v switch: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...8v-cart-2.html Michael |
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04-20-2014, 05:29 PM | #14 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 28
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Re: F/R differences
I bought it from Scotty B and he has a pretty darn good reputation here. Im thinking I did it right, time will tell......
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04-22-2014, 02:49 PM | #15 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 28
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Re: F/R differences
Well, I put the batts in, ran my cables and hooked up the charger. It pegged at 15 right away. Now its just a waiting game until full charge to see if I hooked up the F/R switch properly.
Once I know that this is working properly, Im going to replace the idiot light with a digital I bought from Scotty B. I can cut the carbon fiber dash with a dremel but my main question is, can I use the wire from the key and the other wire and just hook them up or do I need to run special wires? thanks, when I have it all done, I'll post some pics. This is my first ever golf cart so I hope I did things right... |
04-22-2014, 02:58 PM | #16 | |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: F/R differences
Quote:
i'd ask scottyb about install of his meter in your model/year cart .. i hook the meter through the key switch when possible so it turns on with the key |
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04-22-2014, 03:16 PM | #17 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,358
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Re: F/R differences
STOP
You will have to add my meter not replace the OBC idiot light with it - the idiot light must stay in place.- |
04-22-2014, 03:58 PM | #18 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: F/R differences
wow i missed that
here is diagram i made for another member |
04-22-2014, 04:37 PM | #19 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 14,245
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Re: F/R differences
Quote:
I will add one thing, the negative should go to the B- on the other side of the OBC hole so that the OBC reads the power drain. I know the meter drain is minuscule, but might as well... |
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04-23-2014, 12:28 PM | #20 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 28
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Re: F/R differences
Got a little hair in the butter.... batts charged up fine..backed it out of the garage...fine....shifted to F and it wont move...reverse? fine..forward? nothing.
What could I have done wrong? I think I read somewhere that the two posts on the F/R switch needed to be tied together. Is that so? If so, I didn't do that and how do I tied them together? thanks...kind of sucks driving around backwards....:) |
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