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Old 06-16-2011, 05:10 PM   #11
delagem
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Default Re: Carryall I - No go, no click

Sonic, thank you for the diagram. The word "click" totally makes the picture.

Now, could you tell me which color is pos and which color is neg?

I tried red to pos, yellow to neg (using the negative terminal on battery #6, under the passenger side seat), no "click".

If that's correct, it seems my problem is a dead solenoid, correct?
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Old 06-16-2011, 05:26 PM   #12
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Default Re: Carryall I - No go, no click

its a few steps up from my ES585 which is another pretty darn good meter i,m not certain its a wrong reading from a meter i think its more a flawed test to begin with............last time this happened i was tring to figure out if i was dealing with a bad 36 volt e-z go meter and i did every test in the e-z go book by the # out of the book i did them all 3 times or more........according to every reading i got motor was good.....it wasn,t..............thats not the only instance over the years there have been enough that i come to not beleive everything the meter tells me...i wish i could explain it in detail but its one of them things that you have to be there......................
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Old 06-16-2011, 08:09 PM   #13
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Default Re: Carryall I - No go, no click

Gawd I love forums.... Ask a specific question like "Which lead is the positive, red or yellow?"

And get an answer about which voltmeter is more accurate!

By the way, my favorite voltmeter is an antique Simpson meter, but I was using a nice Fluke 73 for these tests!

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Old 06-16-2011, 08:58 PM   #14
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Default Re: Carryall I - No go, no click

sorry we get off track it happens red is pos and black is neg......................
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Old 06-17-2011, 06:57 AM   #15
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Default Re: Carryall I - No go, no click

Thanks, I understand. But the little picture that Sonic posted shows a solenoid with + and - on it. but on mine I can't tell which is + and -. But I can see colors, small yellow and small red, on those terminals. Which should I ground, and which should I touch with the jumper from the large red wire coming in from the batteries?

I suppose it doesn't matter, it should click when wired either way, right?

And a failure to click would appear to indicate a dead solenoid, so my current plan is to get a replacement, a new resistor, and a new diode (resistor fell apart while testing it, I assume diode wire is in the same poor condition).

Does this sound correct? Any other things to check?
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Old 06-17-2011, 08:04 AM   #16
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Default Re: Carryall I - No go, no click

your correct, the new square plastic soleniod is marked + and - because it has a built in diode.....and the diode is directional.........if you just get a white rodgers HD soleniod it makes no never mind which way you mount it but you have to put the diode on in the right direction.......i really don,t care for the plastic one i,ll take a WR,s any dayof the week.......but thats just me..................
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Old 06-17-2011, 08:18 AM   #17
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Default Re: Carryall I - No go, no click

Hi Tom, thanks for the reply.

Where would I source a White Rogers HD Solenoid?

One final question, am I correct that the purpose of this solenoid is simply to serve as the interlock for the charger and pedal? I mean, honestly, couldn't you just eliminate it, at the risk of driving off with your charger still plugged in? I don't see where it provides any other purpose.... Except that I still haven't found my manual, and schematic, so I'm just tracing wires around!
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Old 06-17-2011, 08:50 AM   #18
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Default Re: Carryall I - No go, no click

evdrives has some sweet deals. link


the solenoid is the high current portion of the interlock system... its the switch that cuts power when your controller catches fire, keeps your dog from driving the cart without human assistance, prevents the cart from running you over during maintenance, etc. so while you could bypass it and the cart still function, it would become a huge liability imo. my 2¢ fwiw.
-sj
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Old 06-17-2011, 08:58 AM   #19
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Default Re: Carryall I - No go, no click

its sorta a big on and off switch and without it you,ll always be feeding full power to controller and motor which is something you don,t want to do.......to be honest i have never thought about if you could just eliminate it i know this if it goes bad in the on position what happens is you jump on the cart put it in gear and off you go without having key on or touching pedal or anything ......if thats how you want to run it...........but again power all the time to major componants..........your gonna have to put kill switches in the system in several places........bad idea............as far as buying one check some of the site sponsers the price will be right and the service better...................
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Old 06-17-2011, 02:16 PM   #20
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Default Re: Carryall I - No go, no click

Thanks for the replies, solenoid and resistor on order, might be here Monday.

Another question: the 12v accesories don't work. It would appear that the fuse bar is powered by a direct lead from battery 2, and the ground goes to this ground bar under the driver's side seat:



The 2 middle leads on this grounding bar go to this potted device mounted inside the left frame rail, that has a ground wire leading to motor controller b-.



Would this potted device be the likely culprit for the lack of 12v at my fuse panel?
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